The Modern Urban Gentleman is subjected to a fair amount of ridicule for the number of grooming products in his bathroom. Many overnight vacations include the observation that he has packed more soaps and lotions than his naturally beautiful wife. Nonetheless, the care of a gentleman’s skin and hygiene is of utmost importance.

Choosing grooming products is a highly personal decision, but a few ground rules and a bit of advice can lead the aspiring gentleman down the path of good choices. No man will be able to explore all there is to sample in these areas of men’s care, so use this peek at the Modern Urban Gentleman’s shelf to serve as a launching pad for your own exploration. Share your experiences and recommendations in the comments below.

Shampoo/Conditioner

There are countless theories about how frequently to wash one’s hair, which products to use and which to avoid, and what is an acceptable price to pay for shampoo and conditioner. The Modern Urban Gentleman goes simple with these items, using a combined shampoo/conditioner from Dove. Different men have different needs, in terms of volume control and moisture content, so your mileage may vary.

Recommended product(s): Dove Men+Care Fresh Clean Fortifying 2-in-1 ($4)

Body wash

The cleansing of the body, an ancient and sometimes spiritual ritual, is fertile ground for a boxers-or-briefs level debate between advocates of body wash and proponents of bar soap. This gentleman was raised on bar soap and was loath to loosen his grip on his Zest, but making the switch to a body gel had no psychological aftereffects. It seems the pendulum has swung in recent years in favor of body wash among most cultured men. As with hair, different physiologies require different qualities in a cleanser. In the case of the Modern Urban Gentleman, dry skin is a frequent problem, so moisture is paramount.

Dove Men+Care Fresh Awake body and face wash with Micromoisture ($5)

Face wash

While the Fresh Awake body wash recommended above can also serve as a face wash, the face is worthy of special treatment to combat acne, blackheads, and other unpleasantness. The dividing line in face washes is the inclusion of microbeads. The tiny, abrasive balls give a feeling of extra cleanliness, but are they truly cleaning better than a simple wash? If the gentleman has not had the microbead experience, try Every Man Jack, a favorite throughout the men’s health scene.

Every Man Jack face scrub in signature mint ($6), Nivea Men original moisturizing face wash ($5), Neutrogena Men invigorating face wash ($6)

Shaving products

When a gentleman takes a blade to his face, he had best invest in top quality tools — and that may include some he never even knew existed. The Modern Urban Gentleman officially endorses The Art of Shaving full size kit ($210), which will provide three key friction-reducing and -reparative solutions, plus a pure badger hair brush (a $180 value by itself). If the reader cobbles together his own set of shaving products, be advised: avoid aftershave with alcohol; it will sap your skin of any and all moisture and further irritate, instead of soothe, your face.

The Art of Shaving pre-shave oil ($25), The Art of Shaving shaving cream ($25), The Art of Shaving after-shave balm ($40)

Deodorant

Deodorant is a necessity, but antiperspirant can be a liability. The aluminum compound found in most every antiperspirant on the market interacts with the oils of a man’s body to stain the underarm of his clothes. (Check your “white” undershirts for evidence.) The Modern Urban Gentleman has found the best antiperspirants to be general physical fitness and a seasonally appropriate wardrobe, while the best deodorant comes down to pure personal preference.

Old Spice fresh collection, Fiji ($4)

Moisturizing face lotion

Gentlemen, aftershave is not enough. Shave, get dressed, then return to the bathroom to apply a moisturizing face lotion. After all, the aftershave did nothing to help your dry forehead, and the tender skin of the neck can use some H₂O reinforcement. Face lotion is also a perfect delivery system for daily sunscreen protection without the slimy hands or boardwalk smells.

Neutrogena Men triple protect face lotion with sunscreen SPF 20 ($7), Nivea Men original protective lotion broad spectrum SPF 15 sunscreen ($6)

Hair styling product

Upon the advice of Ms. Brittany, his official hair stylist, the Modern Urban Gentleman uses a texturizer to mold his daily coiffure. Seek the input of your own stylist, whom you surely acquired after our previous hair care discussion.

Mitch by Paul Mitchell Reformer strong hold/matte finish texturizer ($20)

Cologne

Gentlemen, did you know your girlfriend’s favorite girly lotion store also sells men’s products? Bath & Body Works dedicates one of its shelves to the skin care of the less fair sex, including offering the wares of the oldest apothecary in the United States, Greenwich Village’s C. O. Bigelow. No more hiding in the Verizon store next door while she hunts down the Sweet Pea body lotion. The Barber cologne in elixir black is a fine aroma, though its spray mechanism requires special measures to avoid over-scenting. The 2.5 ounces will last months.

This gentleman has never gone in for high-priced designer colognes but scored a free sample of Versace Eros. The scent is tantalizing and has lived up to the potentiality of its name. Your wife can purchase it, along with your Art of Shaving kit, at Ulta.

Versace Eros (1.7 oz for $62), C. O. Bigelow Barber cologne, elixir black (2.5 oz for $20)

That list may look daunting, but once the gentleman has made all the proper purchases and set the routine, the hygiene and maintenance become a relaxing custom. Not only will you feel better about yourself, knowing your skin is clear and moist and your scent is alluring to all, but others will appreciate your efforts as well.

This post is coming to you from Studio D Salon, the hair care choice of both the Modern Urban Gentleman and his Sensible Feminist. In fact, both of your beloved columnists don’t only go to the same facility but share the very same stylist, Brittany.

Yes, you are reading that correctly: the Modern Urban Gentleman goes to a hair stylist. There is no reason for shame; in fact, a hair stylist is a great choice for a gentleman’s needs. These ladies and gentlemen are trained, passionate professionals who are constantly honing their crafts by attending seminars and workshops. They often have dynamic personalities and are in tune to the latest styles, putting you ahead of the curve if you are brave enough to trust them.

And you must find a stylist you trust. Try a few; make sure your personalities gel and you can communicate clearly and comfortably with the person you are entrusting with your scalp. That trust goes both ways; you must be honest and straightforward with your stylist.

A former stylist of the Modern Urban Gentleman, who has since gone on to greener pastures, recently shared the list of eight lies you need to stop telling your hairdresser; some are nearly exclusively female-oriented, but the gentleman can learn a thing or two from perusing the list. Pay special attention to the admonition about allowing the stylist to “do whatever you want.” If you say this, make sure you mean it. If you have a strong, trusting relationship, the stylist will make you look good, but it may take you outside your comfort zone.

The journey to Brittany has been a long odyssey for the Modern Urban Gentleman. For the first 24 years or so, this gentleman wandered in the wilderness of shopping mall hack jobs. It was a twist of fate that brought some direction to these hair stylings.

One day, while walking by Holiday Hair at the local shopping center, the unmistakable laugh of a co-conspirator on a long-ago political campaign caught this gentleman’s ear. As it turned out, Rusty was more than happy to welcome an old acquaintance into his chair. It was not long before Rusty moved on to Washington, D.C., leaving the Gentleman in the care of his colleague, Matt.

Now, no disrespect to the fine people of the Regis Corporation, but it was a relief when Matt moved to an independently owned salon. The new place had more personality, freer spirits, and, most importantly, free wine. This is key: find a salon that serves wine. From there, Matt moved to Studio D (the Modern Urban Gentleman followed) and then to Los Angeles (alas, too far to travel for a haircut). Enter Brittany, the stylist working on your humble servant this very day.

A haircut is not just a haircut for the cultured man. A gentleman without a hair strategy, no matter how fashionably dressed or well-read, will always appear rough around the edges. The changing seasons allow for variety in hairstyles: shaved close on the sides with just enough to comb on top in winter, then grown out to match the Movember mustache.

Much like sunglasses and beards, the best hairstyle is fitted to each man’s face shape. There are plenty of online advice columns to suggest pairings, but it can be difficult to truly assess a face that you’ve stared at in the mirror for decades. The best resource for hairstyle recommendations is, of course, your stylist.

Go no longer than six weeks between cuts. For hair kept short, four is better; longer hair can wait for eight. Be sure to schedule your next appointment as you pay for the current cut; otherwise, being a man, you will let it slide and find yourself overgrown and disheveled. Between cuts, enlist the assistance of your beloved to keep neck hair at bay. Nothing intricate is required: just have him or her shave downward from the hairline with unguarded clippers — you know, the same ones you use for your, um, beard.

Guys, we all remember when a haircut cost your-age-plus-a-dollar. The days of the $9 snip and shampoo are over. Be prepared to spend a bit of cash on a good trim. But given how rapidly the numbers in the age column are going up, a $30 cut may end up being cheaper than the old kids’ cut formula would demand.

Remember: like most of the key components of a gentleman’s image, a slick haircut is an investment. It is also recompense for the years of hard work, experience, and research accumulated by your stylist. If you need more convincing, here is some good reading about the true cost of a haircut. And a gentleman always remembers to tip generously.

There is one shortcoming to a salon: very rarely can a gentleman get a proper shave at a business that makes most of its money in women’s dye jobs. In many jurisdictions, including the Modern Urban Gentleman’s home state of Pennsylvania, only a licensed barber — not a stylist — can wield the razor blade near a man’s face. The barriers to a barber license can be steep, and with the dearth of true gentlemen in this day and age, the paltry demand can lower the potential payoff, keeping barbers few and far between. If you do find and settle on a barber, keep in mind that while wine is essential to the salon experience, the hallmark of a good barbershop is free-flowing whiskey.

Mind items one and two on the “eight lies” list above: the gentleman must carve out time to style his hair with the appropriate product each day. Take the advice of your stylist or barber to determine what the right product is, and don’t expect to look as good as you do when you exit the salon without some effort.

Gentlemen, it is far too easy to dress up a great look and then blow the effect with terrible hair. Take your haircuts seriously and you’ll be rewarded not just with your improved image, but quite possibly with a lifelong friend and confidante.

With temperatures again hovering around freezing in these parts, it is hard to believe the Modern Urban Gentleman was able to comfortably wear polo shirts last weekend. While it may feel like a distant memory now, the opportunity will return next week as spring continues its long tease. In anticipation of the polo proliferation, let us take some time to highlight the keys to making the polo shirt an item worthy of a gentleman.

Despite their casualness, a polo shirt and pair of khakis have become the summer uniform of the office set. The gentleman, of course, should deploy the polo shirt appropriately in professional settings: on very hot days, when traveling, and not for important meetings. The short-sleeved knit top is fit, however, for regular weekend service.

The polo shirt has its roots in tennis, where the long sleeves of the traditional tennis shirt were a hindrance to smooth play. French player René Lacoste guided function into form by producing the first jersey petite piqué and wearing it during the 1926 U.S. Open championship. After retiring, Lacoste exported his shirts, complete with crocodile logo, around the world, where they were adopted by polo players and acquired the name we use today.

There is surprising variety within the spectrum of polo shirt options. As always, the gentleman chooses only the correct style for the situation. The mistake seen most commonly around the water cooler may be the misconception that a golf shirt is an acceptable substitute for a true polo. The golf shirt is immediately recognizable by its loose fit and slight sheen. Those traits are entirely acceptable on the links, where they provide free swings and heat exchange. But if the gentleman finds himself in a setting where he wouldn’t wear Payne Stewart’s pants, why would he think it OK to wear his shirt?

Too many men allow the fit of a golf shirt to bleed over when sizing a proper polo shirt as well. As a follower of this column might expect, the Modern Urban Gentleman endorses a tailored fit that does not leave excess material to gather at the belt line. The length of the shirt’s tails dictates whether it should be tucked in, so purchase longer shirts for work, shorter for play.

When shopping for a polo shirt that will enhance the wearer’s fashion rather than shlub it down, consider two small but critical details. The first is the style of the buttons and collar. The polo shirt usually has two or three buttons, and the top one should always be open. (On a three-button, open the second button when the end-of-workday whistle sounds.) The ideal collar will have some structure of its own instead of laying limp on the collarbone. The standing collar will pull the lapel into a powerful “V” shape, much like on an open-collar Oxford.

The second — and most transformative — detail to look for on a polo shirt is arm length. Compare this Sears-catalog ready look to the suave ladies’ man seen here. The entire package looks exponentially better if the polo’s sleeves stop mid-biceps. This principle also applies to T-shirts, for those of you who are alcoholic, California-based writers. Whether you have the arms of the the late, great Ultimate Warrior or spaghetti-limbed Michael Cera, you’ll enhance what you’re working with by following this simple rule. (Pastel-colored strips of cloth tied around your arms, however, are no longer in style.)

Like most menswear, polo shirts come in a variety of materials and designs. Steer clear of athletic, performance-wear threads more suited to the clay or greens. Heavier, textured knits, like those from Tommy Hilfiger, are great for the mild days of spring and fall. The warmer months call for lightweight — but still structured — material.

The design trend for the past couple of years has been toward block colors. The pieced cotton polo from J. Crew is a winning example. Let your personal style be your guide to color and pattern, but keep the cardinal rule of men’s fashion in mind: only one visually noisy piece per outfit — so if you opt for a multi-color polo, mute it with neutral khakis or denim.

One more rule: keep the polo logo small. Some designers get carried away with their corporate sponsorship of the everyday gentleman. The Modern Urban Gentleman’s favorite polo is entirely logo-less. In fact, the Banana Republic luxe-touch line is heartily endorsed by this column.

A final thought on polo shirts is this: they have a short shelf life. Anyone who has held onto a polo for two years or more knows that the collar slumps, the color fades, and the effect is lost. Luckily, even the good polos are affordable relative to some of the other investment pieces in a man’s closet. Don’t try to get blood from a stone; retire your polo at the end of its service.

Let us all rejoice that the weekends of outdoor cocktail parties and polo shirts are upon us. Just make sure you unwind in style.

In the temperate climates of the Northern Hemisphere, spring has arrived. Those of us in the northeastern quadrant of the United States are still stuffing ourselves into winter coats, but the weather is sure to change eventually. When it does, the gentleman must also change his wardrobe to reflect the season.

Winter evokes darkness, heaviness, seriousness: tweed and pipes and leather bound books and rich mahogany. In spring, the gentleman throws off this weight. Spring and fall are the best times for men’s fashion. The variable and mild temperatures allow for a diversity in clothing options. Fall is all about preparing for winter, with darker earth tones and heavier fabrics, but the buzzword of spring is “light.” Everything about the gentleman’s spring appearance should hew to this theme.

Begin by packing away the chunky sweaters and wool overcoats. But don’t just venture out into 50-degree weather as if it were mid-July. Embrace a leather (or faux leather) jacket, or a slick-looking track-style zip-up. When April showers hit, grab a classic trench or harness backwoods garment technology in an urban-styled raincoat. Furthermore, no modern urban gentleman should subject himself to the rain without a manly umbrella.

At the office and high-class dinner parties, lighten up your suit as well. The Modern Urban Gentleman has covered suits extensively already, but remember a few key points. Spring is the time to wear brighter colors, so put away the blacks, navies, and dark grays; opt for light grays, medium blues, and khaki. Be bold — but not overwhelming — in shirt and tie colors and patterns. Maybe this is the year you finally try a pink shirt.

When dressing more casual, jeans are vernally appropriate, but consider relying on chinos in washed-out hues. Classic khakis are still a staple, but make sure they have a modern fit, narrow through the leg — and, of course, no pleats.

The first half of spring is still brisk, so don’t jump straight into polo shirts. Keep wearing long sleeves, especially in waffle-knit fabrics, like Henleys. A blazer or a cardigan keep things warm without weighing you down. The trend in button-downs is for more ornate patterns; let your personal style be your guide, but remember not to overload the senses by mixing more than one statement piece.

The sun’s warming rays also bring out new options for footwear. The trend of the season is suede Oxfords in all colors. Go for it, but remember to check the weather report before heading out the door; rain can cause all sorts of trouble for the delicate leather (suede care to be covered at a later date). The chukka, or desert, boot was huge last year and will be popular this spring, too.

Sometime after Easter, lose the socks in less formal settings. Going sockless is a big deal, and the Modern Urban Gentleman will offer tips as the time draws near. In the meantime, during the early part of spring, swap out the brown and black stockings for pastels and jaunty designs.

Spring is a prefect time to invest in a new pair of sunglasses that you will try not to lose before Memorial Day. Aviators are a timeless classic, but consider pairing your shades to the shape of your face. Another accessory to consider is the fashion scarf. Don’t be afraid — be a confident modern urban gentleman! It’s very European.

Your spring awakening extends beyond the clothing. Consider trimming some of the winter growth from both your head and your face. The next time you visit the barber, ask about trying a toned-down version of the Macklemore; you’ve seen it recently on Brad Pitt, David Beckham, and Justin Timberlake.

Winter is a great time to sport a mountain man beard (if your wife will allow it), and we saw plenty of them during awards season this year. But spring calls for cultivated stubble instead of wild tangles. Pick up a beard trimmer, take it in tight — and get rid of the stuff on your neck altogether.

If you are a cologne-wearing gentleman, it’s time to mix up the scent. As GQ tells us today, go for something lighter, more green or fruity, to match nature’s bounty.

The modern urban gentleman lifestyle is about more than clothing. So extend the “lighten up” philosophy to everything you do: supplement your whiskey with gin, get outside and breathe the fresh air, laugh more. Spring is also a new beginning in so many ways. Seize this opportunity to learn some new skills, such as planting a garden to provide fresh, healthy food for your family.

Spring is a time of rebirth, and if you are ready to throw off the doldrums of winter, like the Modern Urban Gentleman certainly is, let that rebirth manifest in you as well.

The humble necktie is not so humble after all. It has, for the centuries since its inception as the cravat, signified membership in a particular group. Today, that group is the pantheon of gentlemen.

There are, of course, several variations of the necktie, from the ascot to the bolo; the former is of no concern to modern man, and the latter is suited to a very special type indeed. The bow tie has shed its stuffy image and warrants an entire column of its own at some point in the future. The Modern Urban Gentleman will spend the majority of his time in the traditional necktie, worn by the elite of society at least since President Benjamin Harrison in 1895, and is that which we will address today.

The Modern Urban Gentleman understands that simply wearing a necktie does not place him in an esteemed class. But having a bit of knowledge about that most important men’s accessory can.

Sizing the tie

There are two main concerns in finding a tie of the correct size, and each has been alluded to in previous entries on the suit: length and width.

Most any tie can be adjusted to the proper length, as this is mainly a function of how the gentleman ties the garment. The end result should be that the bottom tip of the tie slightly overlaps the top of the belt. This can, of course, lead to minutes upon minutes of frustrated retying in front of the mirror, but the payoff is worth it. Even 3,139 career rushing yards does not allow for this look.

Neckties generally fall between two and four inches in width, and the gentleman can choose the width that matches his style, provided he follows one rule: The width of the tie shall be equal to the width of the suit jacket’s lapels. This rule is one of proportion and creating a unified image, and that principle extends throughout the entire outfit. The skinny tie is a-OK as long as the knot is tight, the suit is cut slim, and the lapels are narrow; the Michael Irvin tie is just as fine, provided the gentleman in the suit has the muscle mass to fill it out, employs the full Windsor (more on that later), and sports lapels licensed by the Federal Aviation Administration.

Matching the tie

The necktie is the palette of the gentleman’s style. Fly your flag here, but be mindful of the image it projects and the package of which it is a component. It should, in fact, tie the gentleman’s outfit together. Consider the pattern, colors, and fabric in relation to the rest of the outfit, as well as the season of the year.

The classic power tie is the repp tie, associated with Ivy Leaguers and other prep-types for decades. Have one in your repertoire, but experiment with other patterns and solids. Just remember to choose either the tie or the shirt, not both, to make a statement. Generally, pair a patterned tie with a solid shirt, or vice versa. If both items are patterned, vary the scheme: dots on the tie, stripes on the shirt.

For a period of time, roughly coincidental to the peak of the Who Wants to Be a Millionaire? fad, the rule of thumb was to match the color of the necktie to the color of the shirt. This looks fine, but can become monotonous. Instead, work with colors that complement each other (note: not in this sense), such as a green and silver tie with a yellow shirt in the springtime, or a brown knit tie with a medium blue shirt in the fall.

The classic necktie is made of silk. Silk is a wonderful, if expensive, fabric. Silk ties will comprise the bulk of the gentleman’s collection. But consider other options, including cotton and linen. The knitted cotton tie is especially popular now, and is a great choice for winter, paired with a tweed suit.

The Modern Urban Gentleman cannot advise the wearing of Beatles, dollar-bill, rubber-ducky, or other novelty ties.

Tying the tie

What?

There are as many ways to tie a tie as there are ways to craft a simile. Stick to one of three: the four-in-hand, the half Windsor, and the full Windsor. The Modern Urban Gentleman has always found “How to Tie a Tie” graphics like the one at right entirely vexing. Seek out videos for your edification instead; some are recommended below.

The four-in-hand creates the tightest, smallest knot, and is therefore ideal for skinny ties. It happens to be the knot the Modern Urban Gentleman learned to earn his Bear Badge and used exclusively for the next 19 years. The basic strategy for tying this knot is: around twice, up from behind, down through. In the absence of a decent video portrayal, try this guide.

The Modern Urban Gentleman’s go-to knot, and the most versatile of the lot, is the half Windsor. This knot is triangular and symmetrical; it offers bulk and weight without being overstated. To tie the half Windsor: around once, down from the front, around again, up from behind, down through. Got that? Watch this video.

The full, or double, Windsor gets its name from the Duke of Windsor: the man who loved women more than he loved being King of England. The full Windsor is large and requires a spread collar. Wear this knot with the same chutzpah as Prince Edward. The Modern Urban Gentleman has never had occasion to sport this one, so rely on this gentleman to teach you its secrets.

Once the knot is tied, be sure to tuck the tail end through the loop provided to keep everything in line; the choice of adding a tie bar or tie tack is a topic for another day.

Untying and storing the tie

An array of ties can amount to a hefty investment (though it does not need to be; see below), and the gentleman protects his investments. The necktie, like the suit, is a work of craftsmanship. Misuse can cause the entire endeavor to, quite literally, unravel.

The gravest necktie sin, committed by nearly every man who has ever constricted his throat with fabric, is to remove the tie by grasping the knot and yanking. Doing so will mangle the structure of the necktie, introducing permanent waves in the fabric, as well as pull at the thread that holds the tie together along the backside of the tie. Instead, loosen the tie just enough so that it can be untied in the reverse manner in which it was tied. Make this a habit.

It is permissible to loosen the tie and pull it over your head, still tied, only if it is to be immediately draped around the neck of an intimate companion. However, proper untying of the tie is of utmost importance immediately upon retiring from any consequent activity.

Properly storing the tie is nearly as important as properly removing it. Hanging a necktie from, for example, a clothes hanger allows the cumulative effects of gravity to lengthen the tie in uneven and unflattering ways. Opt instead to loosely roll the tie and store it horizontally, perhaps in a cedar tie box such as this one. The Modern Urban Gentleman must admit his own deficiencies in this practice and will gratefully accept a tie box as a gift from any loyal reader.

Buying the tie

The department store offers a wide variety of serviceable-if-overpriced and poor-quality-but-affordable neckties. Purchase these in a pinch. But for well-made, well-priced ties, turn to the Internet.

The Tie Bar has become the darling of men’s fashion, and for good reason. Endorsed by GQ, collaborated with by Dwyane Wade and Jesse Tyler Ferguson, The Tie Bar offers hundreds of ties, sortable by every factor highlighted in this column, at prices that will induce a double-take: 100% woven silk for $15. Buy several, and explore the site’s offerings of pocket squares and other accessories.

For knit ties, The Knottery cannot be beat. The collections are limited and sell out quickly, so get on the mailing list and keep the credit card handy. The Knottery’s ties, which also include wool ties handmade in Brooklyn, are generally priced in the $35 to $40 range, but are currently selling for $20 to $30. Like The Tie Bar, The Knottery offers more than just ties.

There you have it. Never again fall victim to a too-short tie or a case of mismatched proportions.

Thanks again for joining The Modern Urban Gentleman as we discuss men’s fashion. Of course, being a gentleman isn’t just about clothing, so come back next week for a taste of something … off-centered.

Welcome back, gentlemen. Today, we continue the conversation about the most important piece of clothing in the gentleman’s closet: the suit. Take a moment to review last week’s introduction, and then let’s discuss:

How to wear a suit

Wearing a suit seems simple enough, but there are some details the gentleman attends to, demonstrating his command of the outfit and allowing for his personal style to shine. Suits are specifically designed to flatter the male figure, but this magic only works when the suit is chosen wisely and worn correctly. There are two main factors that determine the visual effect of the suit: cut and fit.

“Cut” refers to the way the tailor has cut the fabric to drape on the body. Cut has a rather direct correlation to price because the cut is a reflection of the skill and care of the tailor, as well as how specifically targeted the suit is to a certain body type. The lower-priced suits in many men’s departments are cut to fit as many men with as little alteration as possible. The result for the would-be-stylish gentleman is a box-shaped, oversized, lifeless garment.

Notice how the jacket tapers from shoulder to waist.

The truth is that nearly every man in America wears a suit that is cut too big for his body. Comfort has come to be equated with looseness. Yet loose clothing looks bad, and looking bad destroys confidence. A man without confidence is a man without comfort. The gentleman must redefine the way he thinks about comfort.

The Modern Urban Gentleman understands that not all gentleman are built the same. Nonetheless, a slimmer cut will flatter many gentlemen who would not expect themselves to fall into the “slim” category. The ideal jacket cut will taper slightly from the shoulders through the torso; the perfect pant will hug, not squeeze, the thigh without restricting motion, and will hang from the knee without flaring.

Once the gentleman has tried on several cuts of suit, he turns his attention to fit. In finding the right fit for a suit jacket, focus on three things. First, the shoulders of the jacket should end at the point of the gentleman’s shoulder. Too often, the suit shoulders extend beyond the silhouette of the body, creating the box effect.

Second, button the jacket. The gentleman should be able to slide his hand between this sternum and the jacket — no more, no less. Too loose: the jacket will hang sloppily; too tight, the fabric will be pinched, creating a seam across the waist.

Finally, the gentleman should stand tall and let his arms hang at his side. His fingers should naturally curl up under the tails of the jacket. This length corresponds to a jacket that just covers the rear, allowing the back vents (you may have two vents, or one center vent) to fall just so when seated. The correct jacket length also enhances the “window” of the shirt and tie, and allows the buttons to close over the bottom of the tie and belt.

The fit of the suit pants is a peeve of this Modern Urban Gentleman. Most men understand that pants are sized according to waist and inseam, but most men are egregiously lying to themselves about their true dimensions.

Believe me when I say the Modern Urban Gentleman understands how psychologically difficult it can be to admit the waist is a 36, not a 34. But also trust me when I say that wearing the right size makes the gentleman look thinner than squeezing into too-small pants does. The muffin top is not exclusive to women, and feeling bound up all day will ameliorate many of the swagger effects of wearing a suit.

Another sticking point for many men is the inclination to wear suit pants in the same way they wear jeans: around the hips. Let’s be clear: casual wear should sit around the hips; I am not asking anyone to change their ways on that point. But suit pants sit higher. This is non-negotiable, and may alter the size of pants you buy. The jacket and pants work in tandem, and pants that sit too low create a ripple effect, both up and down the body, that destroys the entire package. The gentleman’s pants sit above the hips, loosely enough not to bind, but snugly enough that a belt is unnecessary (though one should always be worn).

Finally, most visually jarring of all men’s fashion faux pas: the pooling pant leg. The fabric of the pant leg should never be allowed to gather and lay on the top of the shoe. When the gentleman stands, his pant leg should brush the shoe; when he sits, the pant leg should expose several inches of the stylish sock beneath (a topic for another day).

A gentleman never lets this happen.

Beyond cut and fit, the gentlemen must be aware of one key point in order to maximize the visual appeal of the suit. Most suit jackets on American men have two or three buttons to fasten the suit over the abdomen. It may come as a surprise to many, but these buttons are functional, not merely decoration. When a gentleman is standing, his suit jacket is buttoned; when he sits, it is unbuttoned.

The buttoned suit jacket streamlines the upper body and blends it seamlessly into the overall effect of the suit. A closed jacket is also practical; it keeps the necktie in place, especially on a windy day. The buttoned jacket also provides a bit of cover for a necktie that is not tied to the perfect length (the tip of the tie resting just over the top edge of the belt buckle, but more on that in another column). An open jacket draws the eye to any unsightly cushioning around the midsection; the necktie, perched on the shelf of the beer belly, only exaggerates the effect.

And there you have it, gentlemen: the basics of the suit. As the gentleman’s budget grows, he can begin to consider more luxurious details, such as hand-stitching, full-canvas lining, and thread count. But for now, suit shopping shall no longer cause undue consternation.

In the coming weeks, the Modern Urban Gentleman will discuss the other elements, including the shirt, tie, pocket square, and more, that will complete the look. But don’t waste any time before getting to your neighborhood suit shop.

And remember: no pleats.

For many men, a lack of fashion sense is a point of pride. Relegating clothing decisions to an afterthought is ostensibly equated with a demonstration of manliness. The Modern Urban Gentleman knows better.

The world of fashion is a foreign land to many men. And traveling to an unknown place introduces insecurities. The easiest way to deal with an insecurity is to pretend the underlying subject just doesn’t matter. But fashion does matter. Fashion is confidence, and confidence breeds success.

The Modern Urban Gentleman does not hide from his insecurities, he eliminates them. The gentleman does not ignore his points of weakness, he strengthens them. And the best starting point to strengthen the gentleman’s knowledge of men’s fashion is to discuss the suit.

The story of the suit

The suit is the backbone of the gentleman’s wardrobe. It is such a vital element to the Modern Urban Gentleman that it cannot be sufficiently dealt with in just one column; come back next week for the second installment.

Unfortunately, the wearing of a suit has come to be viewed as a necessity rather than an opportunity. As a result, the suit is treated the same as a t-shirt and jeans: purchased haphazardly and worn without pride. The suit demands the opposite.

The suit is a work of art, coaxed into existence by a craftsman out of hundreds of years of tradition and innovation. The suit is a set of garments cut from a single piece of cloth, most commonly wool. It consists of two pieces, a jacket and pants — or three, by adding a vest, also called a waistcoat. The suit, worn effectively, is complemented by a collection of clothes and accessories to express differing degrees of formality and expressions of style.

The suit has evolved through the centuries from the embroidered and jeweled formalwear of post-Renaissance Europe to the common “lounge” suit of the modern American workplace. As history demonstrates, the suit has been repeatedly redesigned for comfort, making today’s suits a pleasure to wear.

In bygone ages, a man would choose a piece of fabric and his tailor would cut and sew each suit to the customer’s measurements. Today, a suit crafted through that method is called a “bespoke” suit, and the price tag runs in the thousands of dollars. Instead, most men purchase suits “off the rack.”

This development is lamentable, because it creates a disconnect from the craft and the majesty of suit-making. Consequently, the off-the-rack revolution has moved suits from tailor’s shops to department stores, altering the man’s psychological connection to the garment. Now, the suit can be treated as a disposable commodity instead of a revered investment.

But in practical terms, the off-the-rack suit makes dressing well accessible to those who are willing to make an effort to wear it right. By understanding the basics of choosing a style and finding the right fit, the gentleman, with the help of his tailor (a topic for another column), can dress to impress any time he dons the suit.

The elements of the suit

The most common suit style in contemporary America is the single-breasted, as contrasted with the double-breasted that has historically been common in England. This terminology refers to the rows of buttons that fasten the jacket: single-breasted has one row, close to the edges of the jacket; double-breasted has two rows that cause the faces of the jacket to overlap when closed.

Suit jackets also feature a turned-over piece of fabric around the color and along the breast of the jacket, called the lapel. There are three main styles of lapel: the notch, the peak, and the shawl. The notch is the least formal, and the shawl the most, usually only appearing on tuxedo or dinner jackets. Lapel widths have shrunk since the 1970s, and must be matched to the width of the necktie (stay tuned for more on this subject).

Suit pants can be cuffed or uncuffed, a matter of personal taste. The pants also can be pleated or not pleated. I say “can be,” but they never should be pleated; this universally looks bad.

When to wear a suit

The suit has been the standard uniform for men in white-collar careers for decades. Recent years have seen the rise of “business casual,” “blue jeans Fridays,” and even “tech casual.” It is tempting to lament how loosening dress codes are ruining America, but the Modern Urban Gentleman lives in today’s world and understands it is unseemly to be a premature curmudgeon.

Instead, the gentleman applies a simple principle: dress five percent better than those around you. This calls for subtlety — do not wear a three-piece to a Super Bowl party, but do wear a suit to a dinner party, and wear it better than anyone else.

There are other times when the gentleman invariably wears a suit. He does wear a suit (or a tuxedo) to a wedding. He does wear a suit to a cocktail party. If the gentleman goes out for drinks after work, he does not go home and change “into something more comfortable”; the suit will improve his chances at both free drinks and proffered phone numbers. The gentleman absolutely does wear a suit to a funeral — and it is the only time to wear a solid black suit.

Choosing the suit

There are many styles and colors of suits, from the stuffy to the outlandish. Because of the cost associated with a suit, a gentleman’s suit closet must be filled over time. The charcoal suit is the most versatile and is a great first purchase for the new professional.

From there, the gentleman can branch out to the pinstripe and the navy-with-gold-buttons. Several years in, he explores new fabrics to fit the seasons: tweed in fall and winter, khaki in spring and summer. As mentioned above, save the solid black suit for end-of-life memorials.

Once the gentleman has five or six reliable suits in his rotation, he can move to novelty pieces: first, the tuxedo, then seersucker. The Modern Urban Gentleman will give tips on these items in the future.

J.Crew has set the standard for the suit of Modern Urban Gentlemen everywhere. The Ludlow suit is effortlessly stylish, worth purchasing one at the upper end of the Modern Urban Gentleman’s budget at $546 to serve as the go-to showstopper. Banana Republic offers a variably priced line that will turn heads as well.

With suits as low as $399, Suitsupply is changing the online suit-purchasing game. They offer a wide selection, including smart double-breasteds for the well-established gentleman.

If none of these options appeal to the gentleman in you, don’t discount a purchase from the menswear department at the mall. As long as the gentleman understands the principles of cut and fit, to be discussed in this space next week, he can find the diamonds in the rough of any suit rack.

The gentleman who follows these rules immediately sets himself up for success. He will look good. He will feel good. He will project a swagger that attracts the attention of potential romantic partners and impresses potential business assets. He will be well on his way to becoming a Modern Urban Gentleman.