The humble necktie is not so humble after all. It has, for the centuries since its inception as the cravat, signified membership in a particular group. Today, that group is the pantheon of gentlemen.

There are, of course, several variations of the necktie, from the ascot to the bolo; the former is of no concern to modern man, and the latter is suited to a very special type indeed. The bow tie has shed its stuffy image and warrants an entire column of its own at some point in the future. The Modern Urban Gentleman will spend the majority of his time in the traditional necktie, worn by the elite of society at least since President Benjamin Harrison in 1895, and is that which we will address today.

The Modern Urban Gentleman understands that simply wearing a necktie does not place him in an esteemed class. But having a bit of knowledge about that most important men’s accessory can.

Sizing the tie

There are two main concerns in finding a tie of the correct size, and each has been alluded to in previous entries on the suit: length and width.

Most any tie can be adjusted to the proper length, as this is mainly a function of how the gentleman ties the garment. The end result should be that the bottom tip of the tie slightly overlaps the top of the belt. This can, of course, lead to minutes upon minutes of frustrated retying in front of the mirror, but the payoff is worth it. Even 3,139 career rushing yards does not allow for this look.

Neckties generally fall between two and four inches in width, and the gentleman can choose the width that matches his style, provided he follows one rule: The width of the tie shall be equal to the width of the suit jacket’s lapels. This rule is one of proportion and creating a unified image, and that principle extends throughout the entire outfit. The skinny tie is a-OK as long as the knot is tight, the suit is cut slim, and the lapels are narrow; the Michael Irvin tie is just as fine, provided the gentleman in the suit has the muscle mass to fill it out, employs the full Windsor (more on that later), and sports lapels licensed by the Federal Aviation Administration.

Matching the tie

The necktie is the palette of the gentleman’s style. Fly your flag here, but be mindful of the image it projects and the package of which it is a component. It should, in fact, tie the gentleman’s outfit together. Consider the pattern, colors, and fabric in relation to the rest of the outfit, as well as the season of the year.

The classic power tie is the repp tie, associated with Ivy Leaguers and other prep-types for decades. Have one in your repertoire, but experiment with other patterns and solids. Just remember to choose either the tie or the shirt, not both, to make a statement. Generally, pair a patterned tie with a solid shirt, or vice versa. If both items are patterned, vary the scheme: dots on the tie, stripes on the shirt.

For a period of time, roughly coincidental to the peak of the Who Wants to Be a Millionaire? fad, the rule of thumb was to match the color of the necktie to the color of the shirt. This looks fine, but can become monotonous. Instead, work with colors that complement each other (note: not in this sense), such as a green and silver tie with a yellow shirt in the springtime, or a brown knit tie with a medium blue shirt in the fall.

The classic necktie is made of silk. Silk is a wonderful, if expensive, fabric. Silk ties will comprise the bulk of the gentleman’s collection. But consider other options, including cotton and linen. The knitted cotton tie is especially popular now, and is a great choice for winter, paired with a tweed suit.

The Modern Urban Gentleman cannot advise the wearing of Beatles, dollar-bill, rubber-ducky, or other novelty ties.

Tying the tie

There are as many ways to tie a tie as there are ways to craft a simile. Stick to one of three: the four-in-hand, the half Windsor, and the full Windsor. The Modern Urban Gentleman has always found “How to Tie a Tie” graphics like the one at right entirely vexing. Seek out videos for your edification instead; some are recommended below.

The four-in-hand creates the tightest, smallest knot, and is therefore ideal for skinny ties. It happens to be the knot the Modern Urban Gentleman learned to earn his Bear Badge and used exclusively for the next 19 years. The basic strategy for tying this knot is: around twice, up from behind, down through. In the absence of a decent video portrayal, try this guide.

The Modern Urban Gentleman’s go-to knot, and the most versatile of the lot, is the half Windsor. This knot is triangular and symmetrical; it offers bulk and weight without being overstated. To tie the half Windsor: around once, down from the front, around again, up from behind, down through. Got that? Watch this video.

The full, or double, Windsor gets its name from the Duke of Windsor: the man who loved women more than he loved being King of England. The full Windsor is large and requires a spread collar. Wear this knot with the same chutzpah as Prince Edward. The Modern Urban Gentleman has never had occasion to sport this one, so rely on this gentleman to teach you its secrets.

Once the knot is tied, be sure to tuck the tail end through the loop provided to keep everything in line; the choice of adding a tie bar or tie tack is a topic for another day.

Untying and storing the tie

An array of ties can amount to a hefty investment (though it does not need to be; see below), and the gentleman protects his investments. The necktie, like the suit, is a work of craftsmanship. Misuse can cause the entire endeavor to, quite literally, unravel.

The gravest necktie sin, committed by nearly every man who has ever constricted his throat with fabric, is to remove the tie by grasping the knot and yanking. Doing so will mangle the structure of the necktie, introducing permanent waves in the fabric, as well as pull at the thread that holds the tie together along the backside of the tie. Instead, loosen the tie just enough so that it can be untied in the reverse manner in which it was tied. Make this a habit.

It is permissible to loosen the tie and pull it over your head, still tied, only if it is to be immediately draped around the neck of an intimate companion. However, proper untying of the tie is of utmost importance immediately upon retiring from any consequent activity.

Properly storing the tie is nearly as important as properly removing it. Hanging a necktie from, for example, a clothes hanger allows the cumulative effects of gravity to lengthen the tie in uneven and unflattering ways. Opt instead to loosely roll the tie and store it horizontally, perhaps in a cedar tie box such as this one. The Modern Urban Gentleman must admit his own deficiencies in this practice and will gratefully accept a tie box as a gift from any loyal reader.

Buying the tie

The department store offers a wide variety of serviceable-if-overpriced and poor-quality-but-affordable neckties. Purchase these in a pinch. But for well-made, well-priced ties, turn to the Internet.

The Tie Bar has become the darling of men’s fashion, and for good reason. Endorsed by GQ, collaborated with by Dwyane Wade and Jesse Tyler Ferguson, The Tie Bar offers hundreds of ties, sortable by every factor highlighted in this column, at prices that will induce a double-take: 100% woven silk for $15. Buy several, and explore the site’s offerings of pocket squares and other accessories.

For knit ties, The Knottery cannot be beat. The collections are limited and sell out quickly, so get on the mailing list and keep the credit card handy. The Knottery’s ties, which also include wool ties handmade in Brooklyn, are generally priced in the $35 to $40 range, but are currently selling for $20 to $30. Like The Tie Bar, The Knottery offers more than just ties.

 

There you have it. Never again fall victim to a too-short tie or a case of mismatched proportions.

Thanks again for joining The Modern Urban Gentleman as we discuss men’s fashion. Of course, being a gentleman isn’t just about clothing, so come back next week for a taste of something … off-centered.