With temperatures again hovering around freezing in these parts, it is hard to believe the Modern Urban Gentleman was able to comfortably wear polo shirts last weekend. While it may feel like a distant memory now, the opportunity will return next week as spring continues its long tease. In anticipation of the polo proliferation, let us take some time to highlight the keys to making the polo shirt an item worthy of a gentleman.
Despite their casualness, a polo shirt and pair of khakis have become the summer uniform of the office set. The gentleman, of course, should deploy the polo shirt appropriately in professional settings: on very hot days, when traveling, and not for important meetings. The short-sleeved knit top is fit, however, for regular weekend service.
The polo shirt has its roots in tennis, where the long sleeves of the traditional tennis shirt were a hindrance to smooth play. French player René Lacoste guided function into form by producing the first jersey petite piqué and wearing it during the 1926 U.S. Open championship. After retiring, Lacoste exported his shirts, complete with crocodile logo, around the world, where they were adopted by polo players and acquired the name we use today.
There is surprising variety within the spectrum of polo shirt options. As always, the gentleman chooses only the correct style for the situation. The mistake seen most commonly around the water cooler may be the misconception that a golf shirt is an acceptable substitute for a true polo. The golf shirt is immediately recognizable by its loose fit and slight sheen. Those traits are entirely acceptable on the links, where they provide free swings and heat exchange. But if the gentleman finds himself in a setting where he wouldn’t wear Payne Stewart’s pants, why would he think it OK to wear his shirt?
Too many men allow the fit of a golf shirt to bleed over when sizing a proper polo shirt as well. As a follower of this column might expect, the Modern Urban Gentleman endorses a tailored fit that does not leave excess material to gather at the belt line. The length of the shirt’s tails dictates whether it should be tucked in, so purchase longer shirts for work, shorter for play.
When shopping for a polo shirt that will enhance the wearer’s fashion rather than shlub it down, consider two small but critical details. The first is the style of the buttons and collar. The polo shirt usually has two or three buttons, and the top one should always be open. (On a three-button, open the second button when the end-of-workday whistle sounds.) The ideal collar will have some structure of its own instead of laying limp on the collarbone. The standing collar will pull the lapel into a powerful “V” shape, much like on an open-collar Oxford.
The second — and most transformative — detail to look for on a polo shirt is arm length. Compare this Sears-catalog ready look to the suave ladies’ man seen here. The entire package looks exponentially better if the polo’s sleeves stop mid-biceps. This principle also applies to T-shirts, for those of you who are alcoholic, California-based writers. Whether you have the arms of the the late, great Ultimate Warrior or spaghetti-limbed Michael Cera, you’ll enhance what you’re working with by following this simple rule. (Pastel-colored strips of cloth tied around your arms, however, are no longer in style.)
Like most menswear, polo shirts come in a variety of materials and designs. Steer clear of athletic, performance-wear threads more suited to the clay or greens. Heavier, textured knits, like those from Tommy Hilfiger, are great for the mild days of spring and fall. The warmer months call for lightweight — but still structured — material.
The design trend for the past couple of years has been toward block colors. The pieced cotton polo from J. Crew is a winning example. Let your personal style be your guide to color and pattern, but keep the cardinal rule of men’s fashion in mind: only one visually noisy piece per outfit — so if you opt for a multi-color polo, mute it with neutral khakis or denim.
One more rule: keep the polo logo small. Some designers get carried away with their corporate sponsorship of the everyday gentleman. The Modern Urban Gentleman’s favorite polo is entirely logo-less. In fact, the Banana Republic luxe-touch line is heartily endorsed by this column.
A final thought on polo shirts is this: they have a short shelf life. Anyone who has held onto a polo for two years or more knows that the collar slumps, the color fades, and the effect is lost. Luckily, even the good polos are affordable relative to some of the other investment pieces in a man’s closet. Don’t try to get blood from a stone; retire your polo at the end of its service.
Let us all rejoice that the weekends of outdoor cocktail parties and polo shirts are upon us. Just make sure you unwind in style.