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What We’re Pouring: June 4, 2014

First, a little about the grape: A delicate white grape originally sourced from western France, but is now found growing successfully in most major wine producing regions throughout the world. Predominantly, successful new-world wine regions such as California and New Zealand have found the grape to grow well, especially in warm weather, and produce increasingly popular wines. There are many affordable sauvignon blancs being produced and it is starting to fill shelves at stores more and more due to its popularity. The wine is associated most with spring and summer as it is a light, delicately refreshing wine with a citrus zest that is best served chilled. It is perfect by itself, but can also compliment light-fare dishes, nuts, cheeses, and seafood. I drank three different, but pleasing new-world sauvignon blancs last week that are sure to satisfy the casual wine drinker.

 

WINERY: Constellation Brands (a mega-huge wine outfit, the Simply Naked is one of their brands marketed to U.S. consumers)
WINE NAME: 2011 Simply Naked: Unoaked Sauvignon Blanc
REGION: New Zealand (east coast)
VARIETAL: 100% Sauvignon Blanc
ABV: 12.5%
NOTES: The wine is huge on the tropic/citrus fruit. It is apparent as soon as the faux cork is removed; it is very potent on the nose, at first. There is a perfume/floral element that hits later, but it is not as overwhelming as the fruit. The intense fruit on first sip doesn’t linger long and the wine has little sustainability after that, but it’s appropriate for this lighter wine. The color is of Welch’s white grape juice or a light pilsner beer. This is an all steel tank fermentation process, so (unlike a more tradition Loire Valley style), there is no oak flavor. The wine maker claims a bit of lat minerality on the finish, but I got none of that. It was an easy-to-drink, refreshing wine, and at $8 to $9 a bottle, it’s easy on the wallet. If you like a lot of initial fruit punch to your wine, this is definitely worth a bottle or two. I didn’t pair it with anything, but could see it going well with a plate of soft cheese and even some dijon mustard on crackers, but honestly, it might just be best by itself. The wine, while intense on the fruit at first, is overall, weak, and might get lost amongst food that is too complex. Just speculation, but the 2011 vintage could very well be past its prime. C+ ~JW

 

WINERY: Michael Mondavi Family
WINE NAME: 2012 Oberon Sauvignon Blanc
REGION: Napa Valley, California
VARIETAL: about 76% Sauvignon Blanc and 24% Sauvignon Blanc Musque
ABV: 13.7%
NOTES: This one is about as robust as you can get with a sauvignon blanc. The slightly higher alcohol (as compared to the Simply Naked) gives it a zest and heightens the grapefruit flavor. I feel that this one could actually pair with a meal (of white fish or shellfish, perhaps even a grilled salmon with a yogurt-dill sauce) as the wine has enough power to cut-through and not become lost in the flavors of the meal. The acid is prominent, but gives way to an agreeable earthiness, like grass or salad, that was missing from the previous wine. A pale golden color, like apple juice. This steel-tank, cole-fermented wine yields to a slightly sour aftertaste, but not one that is unpleasant. I’d liken the slightly sour finish to Granny Smith apples. Of the three, this was the most well-rounded by itself. It’s a best buy, too, at around $12 to $13 a bottle. The wine was a little tight, and while most mass-marketed, steel-fermented sauvignon blancs are really meant for immediate drinking, this one, I feel, could maybe last it out another year or two. Wine Advocate recently gave this wine an 89, which prompted me to try it. I have to agree. B+ ~JW

 

WINERY: Root: 1 (The Original Ungrafted) of the Vi¤a Ventisquero Estate Winery
WINE NAME: 2012 Root: 1 Sauvignon Blanc
REGION: Valle de Casablanca, Chile
VARIETAL: 100% Sauvignon Blanc
ABV: 13%
NOTES: Very pale yellow, paler than the others tried, but yields a good potency upon first removing the twist-off cap and taking the initial sip. It is extremely similar in taste to the Oberon, although this one gets the added minerality on the sides of the tongue, more like a French produced sauvignon blanc. According the winemaker’s website, the appellation contains high amounts of red and black clay soil types that might contribute to this flavor. Like the others, there is a pronounced emphasis on citrus (primarily grapefruit and lemon) that are the main driving force in this wine. The acidity cuts, providing a full range of pairing possibilities. I had this wine along with some grilled vegetables and tilapia, and while I feel the Oberon might have complimented this meal better, I was not at a loss with this wine. It was refreshing and the acid lingered long enough to enjoy it. This one is for fans of citrus fruit heavy wines. A very affordable wine, too, at around $10 a bottle. B ~JW

 

WINERY: Hogue Cellars
VARIETAL: 100% Gewurztraminer
VINTAGE: 2011
REGION: Columbia Valley, Washington State
ABV: 12.2%
NOTES: Light golden in color, floral aromas are detected almost instantly. But after the initial floral attack, the nose has nice fruit characteristics: pineapple, grapefruit, and lemon. On the palate, it is not nearly as intense as most Gewurztraminers, more like off-dry in style rather than bone dry. Orange/tangerine, lychee, and tart apple on the palate, with hints of honey and clove, and a refreshing bit of astringent tea on the finish. More of a floral/citrus Gewurz, without the heavy spice character commonly found, and the hint of sweetness makes it a great pairing with spicy asian cuisine. $11 B+ ~BG

 

WINERY: Red Newt Cellars
VARIETAL: 100% Riesling
DESIGNATION: Bullhorn Creek Vineyard
VINTAGE: 2011
REGION: Finger Lakes, New York
ABV: 12.2%
NOTES: Single-vineyard Riesling from the Finger Lakes. Light yellow in the glass, the nose has an enticing honeysuckle aroma, combined with hints of melon and apple. On the palate, the acidity is fairly intense and mouthwatering, and the wine is slightly off-dry. Flavors of tart apple, lychee, and pear strike first, with a delicious, refreshing citrus finish, especially lime. The layers of fleshy fruit up front, followed by the intense citrus acidity creates a really outstanding balance. $20 A- ~BG

 

WINERY: Decoy by Duckhorn Vineyards
WINE NAME: Red Blend
VINTAGE: 2011
REGION: Napa Valley, California
VARIETAL: 47% Merlot, 36% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc, 7% Petit Verdot
ABV: 13.5%
NOTES: This red blend pours inky dark crimson in the glass, with plenty of dark berry fruits on the nose. Mostly blackberry and black cherry, with hints of blueberry, along with dark chocolate and a little bit of baked pie crust. On the palate more of the same dark fruit, intertwined with hints of earth, leather, and spice. Finish is a bit weak, but overall enjoyable. $20 B ~BG

 

WINERY: 14 Hands
VINTAGE: 2011
REGION: Washington State
VARIETAL: 100% Riesling
ABV: 11%
NOTES: Sweeter than I expected, the wine pours a very pale yellow in the glass. Fruity melon and peach on the nose, with tart apple, peach, and pear dominant flavors on the palate. I had this wine with swordfish, and found myself wishing for less sugar, more acidity and more mineral flavors. The flavors are pleasing but simplistic. Probably not a good choice for pairing with a main course, but as an apertif, it would be fine. $11 C+ ~BG

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About Bill George

Bill George writes the "Bottled & Corked" wine column for curiata.com, with an emphasis on the Finger Lakes region and on wine under $25. He is a Boston Red Sox fanatic, teaches and designs shows for high school marching bands, and is in constant search for laughs. Bill works at the Pennsylvania House of Representatives and lives in Dillsburg with his wife, Jolene; son, Samuel; and Labrador retriever, Sydney.