Author Archives: Bill George

About Bill George

Bill George writes the "Bottled & Corked" wine column for curiata.com, with an emphasis on the Finger Lakes region and on wine under $25. He is a Boston Red Sox fanatic, teaches and designs shows for high school marching bands, and is in constant search for laughs. Bill works at the Pennsylvania House of Representatives and lives in Dillsburg with his wife, Jolene; son, Samuel; and Labrador retriever, Sydney.

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All about Alsace: Perfect French, German blend

If you’re not much of a wine drinker (yet), you might not know that Alsace — that famed region that has sometimes been called Alsace-Lorraine and has flipped back and forth as part of Germany or France since the time of Charlemagne — is actually a vibrant winemaking region. The focus is primarily on white wine, although some light-bodied Pinot Noir is produced as well.

What makes Alsace different from other areas in France? For one, Alsace is one of the few French regions that produces varietal wines rather than blends, possibly due to the influence of winemaking in Germany, where wines are also usually single varietals: wines are named after the grape, rather than the region — virtually unheard of in the rest of France. Similarly, the grapes planted are much more German than they are French: Riesling and Gewürztraminer, for example, along with Pinot Gris, are the three most popular wines of Alsace.

Additionally, the Vosges Mountains cut Alsace off from the Atlantic climate that prevails in most of France. As rain moves from west to east toward Alsace, the mountains block it, leaving Alsace with the driest region in France (particularly in September and October, making for perfect harvest conditions). The sloping, stony foothills of the east side of the mountains provide ideal vineyard locations.

Rieslings from Alsace will probably be the easiest to find, are considered the best in the region, and are usually clean, stony wines with citrus fruit flavors. Alsatian wines are typically void of oak flavors, relying on the pure flavors of the grape and the soil. The Rieslings show that sense of place (or “terroir”) more than just about any other white wine, and as a result of the varied terrain of Alsace, they display a tremendous variety. Wines produced from vines growing at higher altitudes or on rocky soil will show different flavors than those grown in valleys or in loamy, clay soil.

Domaine Zind-Humbrecht (not exactly a French name) is a classic Alsace producer that makes outstanding Rieslings. The 2012 ($20, 90 points from Wine Spectator) displays really well-integrated floral notes, petrol (yes, believe it or not, gasoline is a typical Riesling characteristic), and apple aromas, with a palate of honey, orange, lemon, and apricot flavors. The wine is rich and, like most Rieslings, has an acidic backbone that make it very food-friendly.

Gewürztraminer in general is somewhat of an acquired taste, and those from Alsace are no different. The intensely floral, “perfumey” characteristics are somewhat odd to the novice wino. The 2012 Albert Mann Gewürztraminer ($20) is an intense wine with aromas of peach, honey, and perfume, followed by by bursts of spice, apple, lemon, lychee, and mango on the palate.

Pinot Noir is just about the only red you’ll find from Alsace, and these are normally light-bodied wines, again with very little oak. Trimbach, another classic Alsace producer, makes a Pinot Noir Reserve with fantastic earthy aromas of forest, subtle flowers, and spice, with cranberry and dark cherry flavors on the palate, and very soft, earthy tannins on the finish. Don’t stop with the Pinot Noir — try Trimbach’s Rieslings and Gewürztraminers as well.

Finally, Alsace also produces a fair amount of Pinot Gris, which is called Pinot Grigio in Italy and by some U.S. wineries. If you can find a bottle of Pierre Sparr Mambourg Grand Cru Pinot Gris, give it a try. The flavors are concentrated and intense, with a slightly viscous consistency, and flavors of tropical fruit like pineapple and tangerine, plus apricot, pear, and zesty acidity.

Alsace is also known for its sparkling wine, Crémant d’Alsace, which is widely available. The sparkling rosés are particularly worthwhile.

Alsace is definitely unique within France, and its wines make for a great change of pace. The price is usually right, too, with reasonably priced bottles widely available for $15 to $25.

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Finding interesting bubbles for Oscars night

Champagne and the Academy Awards seem to go together like ice cream and apple pie. It’s become a natural pairing: glitzy, glamorous Hollywood celebrities sipping the finest sparkling wine available. And if you feel like splurging on $100 or $1,000 bottles, go for it! But alternatives abound, including some unique, interesting sparklers.

You probably know that Champagne originates from the Champagne region of France, and only sparkling wine produced there can carry the name in that country. But plenty of comparable sparkling wine is produced elsewhere and for a lower cost. So how is sparkling wine made?

The process starts out similarly to normal wine: harvesting and crushing grapes into juice, and allowing the juice to ferment. Sparkling wine from France is either “Blanc de blancs,” made with white grapes, or “Blanc de noirs,” made with red or black grapes. Blanc de blancs are usually crafted from Chardonnay, while Blanc de noirs often use Pinot Noir and/or Pinot Meunier. Despite these Blanc de noirs being dark-skinned, the juice is drained off the skins almost immediately, so the wines still look “white,” much like the process used for many rosés.

After this, sugar and more yeast are added to the wine before it is bottled to undergo a second fermentation and aged “on the lees“. This is when the bubbles are created. Next, the bottles are stored at a 45-degree angle with the cork pointed down, then “riddled” — turned and gently shaken every few days — to force the dead yeast cells down towards the cork. The necks of the bottles are dipped in a freezing brine and turned right side up when the pressure builds enough to push the dead yeast cells (and a small amount of wine) out.

The expelled wine is replaced with a sugary mixture that determines how sweet or dry the sparkling wine will become, and then is finally re-corked. This is referred to as the “méthode champenoise” in Champagne, or the “traditional method” everywhere else. For designations of sweetness, drier bottles will typically labeled Brut (dry), Extra Brut (extra dry) or Brut Natural (driest).

Elsewhere in France, there are multiple “Crémant” (French for “creamy”) appellations which focus on sparkling wine. Crémant de Bourgogne (Burgundy) is one such appellation, and there are definitely smart buys to be found. Louis Bouillot Crémant de Bourgogne Rosé Brut Perle d’Aurore is one example — a rosé that, while not complex, has delicious creamy flavors of strawberry, cranberry, cream, and apple, and is very affordable.

Of course, there’s plenty of sparkling wine from France produced outside the well-known regions like Champagne and Burgundy. One of my favorites is the Domaine de Martinolles ‘Le Berceau’ Blanquette de Limoux. Limoux, in the western part of the Languedoc region, is one of the few places left on Earth planting the Mauzac grape, which must make up at least 90 percent of wines produced there. The wine is an easy drinking sparkler, with refreshing lemon and tart apple flavors that intertwine with yeasty bread, herbs, and fresh-cut grass. This is great with light appetizers or cheeses, but my favorite pairing is buttered popcorn — perfect for Oscars night. The lemony acidity cuts right through the butter. The Lucien Albrecht Crémant d’Alsace Brut Rosé is also a great sparkling rosé, with similar red berry flavors to the Louis Bouillot, but with an added fresh baked bread component.

If you are looking for something domestic, there are plenty of examples from California at decent prices. The Piper Sonoma Blanc de Blancs Sonoma County Select Cuvée is a solid purchase at $18, as is Korbel’s Brut Rose for an easy-drinking value buy at $15. But the Gruet Winery is creating some outstanding sparkling wine — in New Mexico, of all places. Their line of non-vintage sparklers is outstanding both in quality and price, falling between $15 and $18. The Gruet Brut has classic flavors of toast, yeast, apples, and a little lemon, while the Brut Rose exhibits creamy strawberry, raspberry, and tart cranberry flavors. I’m looking forward to trying the Extra Brut, Sauvage, and Blanc de noirs as well.

Finally, the new kid on the block is Cava, a sparkling wine from Spain. Cava is also produced using the méthode champenoise, but uses lesser known grape varieties including Macabeo, Parellada, and Xarel-lo. Cava is typically much less expensive than Champagne or California sparklers because it is still relatively unknown: the demand is low, so there are some good wines available for very good prices, sometimes less than $10. Cava typically shows less fruitiness than Champagne or Italian Prosecco (another sparkling wine worth trying) and more earthy, mineral, and citrus flavors.

Freixenet produces a variety of Cavas from sweet to dry, and their two driest, the Cordon Negro Brut and Cordon Negro Extra Dry, are both worthy of an Oscars party. The Brut shows plenty of grapefruit and lemon citrus, with hints of apple and ginger. The Extra Dry is just a little bit sweeter, with melon, peach, and earthy mineral flavors. Both are widely available for less than $15.

There are plenty of options out there and many sparkling wines are offered for a decent price. For most of us, the Academy Awards are an excuse to have a fun night, but it is by no means a huge milestone that requires a magnum of Dom Perignon. So try something new! Who gets your award for “Best Wine”?

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Seek out whites from ‘undiscovered’ countries

White wine is, in the minds of most Americans, made up of two categories: Chardonnay, and everything else. In California, for example, about 172,000 acres of white wine grapes were bearing fruit in 2012, and over 93,000 acres were Chardonnay. But every time I shop for wine, I like to try and buy at least one bottle of a lesser-known variety, which I can almost always find for less than $20.

One such wine is Torrontés, a refreshing white from Argentina. (Another torrentes, from Spain, is actually unrelated.) Torrontés is extremely aromatic, with signature floral and citrus fruit on the nose. Pour a little in the glass and sniff and you’ll likely find aggressive aromas more like perfume than wine.

Salta and La Rioja are the premier regions for Torrontés, with San Juan and Mendoza generally producing lower quality. (In the case of Mendoza, perhaps the lower quality is because of the strong focus on Malbec, an “undiscovered red,” in that region.)

The Crios de Susana Balbo Torrontés is a great offering, from the Salta region. The Crios de Susana Balbo shows beautiful aromas of melon, lime, roses, and white flowers and an enjoyable balance of floral, citrus, and herbal flavors on the palate. The 2012 is good, but not as intense as the 2010 or 2011.

The 2011 Urban Uco from O. Fournier is outstanding — rated 91 points by Wine Advocate and available for only $10 to $14. With grapes grown in the Salta region, there are plentiful aromas of tart apple and melon. The palate is more heavily tropical, with grapefruit, pineapple, and kiwi flavors along with melon and a vibrant, acidic finish.

While Torrontés is quickly becoming the dominant white wine from Argentina, another “undiscovered white” is making an impact a few thousand miles away. Grüner Veltliner is the premier wine grape grown in Austria. The wine is typically made dry, and styles vary from clean, with lots of mineral notes from vines on the steep, gravely hills along the Danube, to more fruit-forward bottles. A signature note of Grüner (as it is commonly shortened) is a hint of white pepper. For those that really like to hunt for the better wines, Grüner from the Wachau, Kamptal, Kremstal, and Wagram regions of Austria are considered the best, though there are plenty of tasty offerings from other areas as well.

Adolf & Heinrich Fuchs is a great, inexpensive example to try — light-bodied and refreshing. Grüner does not typically have strong aromas: you’ll have to put your nose into the glass to find notes of citrus and spice. But the palate is delicious, with grapefruit, lemon, melon, and that zing of pepper at the end.

I’ve also enjoyed some of the wines from Laurenz V, who make strictly Grüner Veltliners. At $12 to $15, the Singing Grüner Veltliner is heavy on tropical aromas like pineapple and tangerine, with interesting hints of honeysuckle and herbs. On the palate, it is not as light as the Fuchs, but by no means full-bodied, with flavors of pineapple, pear, and pepper.

Grüner is grown almost exclusively in Austria, though it is being planted in the United States. A few wineries in California are giving it a try, as well as Galen Glen in Pennsylvania and Black Ankle in Maryland. Dr. Konstantin Frank has brought Grüner to the Finger Lakes as well. Torrontés is even more rare outside of its native soils, though California wineries Wise Villa and Forlorn Hope (a winery that focuses on unusual grapes) are both producing the Argentine white.

Get out of your comfort zone and try a bottle of something other than the California Chardonnay you buy all the time. Argentina and Austria may not have the popularity of Bordeaux or Napa, but they do produce excellent whites.

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Shiraz throws fruit bombs from Down Under

My first real introduction to dry red wines was by way of Australia. The bold red wines produced there match the personality of its people: lively and exciting, with an explosion of flavor. Australian wines (and its people) are rarely subtle or boring.

Shiraz is the grape that really put Australian wine on the map, but it’s actually the same grape as Syrah, which is widely planted in France. The Syrah grape is the fourth-most-planted in France, with a large percentage grown in the Rhône valley, but like with most wines from that country, Syrah is often mixed with other varietals to make custom French blends.

In Australia, however, there are plenty of single varietal Shiraz bottlings. I use the term “single varietal” with some qualification: different countries have different rules about what can be put on the label. In Australia, up to 15 percent of the wine can be from a different grape while still being called a single varietal. (For example, a bottle labeled Shiraz might have up to 15 percent Cabernet Sauvignon blended in.)

Australian wine did not register on the radar of most drinkers in the United States until the 1990s, when imports rose dramatically (from 578,000 cases in 1990, to 20 million cases in 2004). The Shiraz/Syrah wines from Australia were and still can be big, tannic, jammy, full-flavored “fruit bombs” with a peppery finish.

If you’re like me and appreciate the tannins (which create that puckering, cotton-mouth sensation), Aussie Shiraz makes for an easy introduction to dry red wines, because of the overwhelming fruit flavor characteristics. (If you don’t like the tannins, try Merlot or Pinot Noir instead.) In my experience, wines from McLaren Vale and the Barossa Valley tend to fall in this “fruit bomb” category: rich, intense, with higher alcohol and flavor profiles in the “dark fruit” category, like black cherries and blackberries.

If the fruit bomb style is too over-the-top for you, not all Aussie Shiraz is that way. In cooler climate regions, like the Yarra Valley, Eden Valley, and Coonawarra, Shiraz is definitely more low-key, with “red fruit” characteristics, lower alcohol, and higher acidity. Check the region on the label before you make a quick purchase.

The “fruit bomb” style has predominated in Australian Shiraz, but the pendulum is swinging toward a blend of fruity and savory flavors with a little bit of restraint. But don’t worry — it’s still Australian wine, and “restraint” is a relative term.

Penfolds Grange is the premier Shiraz of Australia, ranking at the top of the wine world alongside Grand Cru Bordeaux blends. But it’ll set you back quite a bit — say, hundreds of dollars per bottle. I recently saw the 2008 selling for $850. Yikes!

Fortunately, Australian wine is flooding the market right now. In the early 2000s, when demand for Australian wine was huge, wineries planted more and more vines and increased production. Now that demand has plateaued, and even decreased on occasion, there’s more wine sitting around than there is demand for it. (Some have even called for wineries to rip vines out of the ground to lower future supply.) As a result, you can probably find some great Shiraz that won’t break the bank.

If you’re trying Aussie Shiraz for the first time, don’t bother with Yellow Tail; it’s not even sold in Australia, and Aussies themselves laugh about Yellow Tail the same way they do about Foster’s Beer. Instead, check out Jacob’s Creek or Rosemount Estate for inexpensive introductions.

For a bit more cash, around $18 to $20, the 2008 Blackbilly Shiraz is great: a dark garnet, almost purple, color with crushed dark fruit on the nose, intense dark berries on the palate, hints of coffee, chocolate, and a little bit of a savory, gamey flavor. The 2010 Gatekeeper Shiraz is nice as well, showing raspberry, licorice, and chocolate on the nose, with flavors of cherries, plum, and black pepper on the palate, for a cool $14.

There is some debate as to the value of of aging Australian wines. Many ask if the flavors will hold up after 15 or 20 years. In the past, most people said they would not. But in recent years, some experts have begun to change their minds.

In my own experience, the best Australian Shiraz I’ve ever had was The Gate from the excellent 2002 vintage. This was by no means a top-dollar bottle, but after 11 years in my cellar, my wife and I drank it for our fifth wedding anniversary and it performed beautifully: dark berries, licorice, dusty and aged on the nose. A mix of blueberries and blackberries, vanilla, savory herbs, leather, crushed black cherries, molasses, and licorice on the palate. The finish was gloriously long. Not overly complex, but the time spent in the cellar brought out some great flavors.

Aged or not, Shiraz is a spectacular introduction to dry red wines, and the Australian single varieties are often a delicious choice.

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Despite reputation, rosé not a bad word

Poor rosé. Recent decades have not been kind to the pale wine, due in large part to that dreaded enemy of serious winos everywhere, White Zinfandel. But rosé has a long history in the wine world, from its heights as the premier wine of the Western world to its lamentable current position as merely an afterthought.

Rosé wines are, for the most part, actually red wines. In all red winemaking, grapes are crushed and the juice is allowed to rest in a tank with the broken skins; this mixture of juice and skins is called “must.” The juice pulls flavors and colors from the broken skins during maceration. After a period of time determined by the winemaker, the must is pressed, and the skins discarded. Here’s the key: how long the juice is in contact with the skins determines whether the wine will be red or rosé: The less time, the paler the rosé; the more time, the deeper the red.

(The solid parts of the must, called “pomace,” are sometimes reused in certain brandies, including grappa.)

Believe it or not, rosé was actually the preferred style of wine for centuries. The Greeks and Romans both allowed minimal grape skin contact time. Winemaking technology was primitive, and when red wines were attempted, they were often harsh or bitter. Instead, grapes were crushed by hand (or rather, by foot) and juice was drained off the skins almost immediately, creating a pale pink wine. This practice continued for centuries, well into the Middle Ages. During England’s Elizabethan Era, pale “clarets” (the British term for Bordeaux vintages) were the preferred wine.

As techniques advanced, rosé was forced to share the limelight with powerful reds. The tipping point for rosés came after World War II. Two Portuguese wineries began producing popular, sweet, sparkling rosés. At the same time, white wine was surging in demand, and California wineries found themselves flush with red wine grapes. California vintners began making sweeter “white” wines from red wine grapes, using minimal skin contact time. This gave birth to the generic term “blush” in the 1970s, as well as to Sutter Home’s infamous White Zinfandel.

Americans who didn’t normally drink wine gravitated toward the sweet White Zinfandels, so some wineries began to copy that style in their rosé offerings. Wines labeled rosé became confusing — was the bottle going to be sweet or dry? Eventually, “serious” wine drinkers gave up on rosé, especially in America, assuming that most would be too sweet, and they stuck to dry reds and whites.

During the last decade, however, high quality rosé has seen a resurgence. Perhaps those novice wine drinkers of the 70s and 80s have finally grown up, or perhaps more adventurous drinkers are willing to take a chance on the pale wine. Whatever the reason, in 2010 alone, U.S. retail sales of imported rosés of $12 or more increased by almost 20 percent in volume, a rate of growth well ahead of total table wines.

So where should you start exploring this reinvigorated segment of the wine industry? France, naturally, and Provence in particular. Provence, on the southeast Mediterranean coast, has been, and continues to be, the standard-bearer of rosé wine worldwide. It is one of the few regions on Earth that produces more rosé than red or white. And why not? The traditional cuisine of the region, full of fish and fresh vegetables, is a perfect match for light bodied, fruit-forward, acidic, dry and off-dry rosés.

Chateau Montaud is a fantastic example. At $10 to $12, the wine is inexpensive and has terrific strawberry, cherry, and herbal flavors, with hints of melon and tart apple. The zingy acidity makes it food-friendly, especially with light appetizers or cheeses, salmon, and shellfish. It’s really refreshing and is my go-to rosé.

Elsewhere in France, the Tavel appellation along the Rhône River (in the Côtes du Rhône) is another prominent rosé region. Tavel wines are 100 percent rosé: no reds or whites are allowed to be produced. Some wineries here drain part of the must off the skins early, after only 12 to 24 hours, while the rest is left to macerate longer, imparting more powerful flavors. These two batches are then blended together to create rosés with higher alcohol content (up to 13.5 percent), darker coloring, and more intense flavors. (Contrast the light bodied rosés from Provence with these full-bodied offerings.)

Check out the Domaine des Carteresses Rosé, for around $12 or $13. The color is a far deeper pink than the Chateau Montaud, with a level of intensity more like a light-bodied red wine. On the palate, you’ll find watermelon, red berries, grapefruit, and tart apple characteristics and a clean mineral finish. (Try it with chicken barbecue.)

Most French wines are blends of multiple grape varieties, and French rosés are no exception. Both Provence and Tavel winemakers primarily blend Grenache, Mouvedre, Syrah, and Cinsault grapes in their rosés.

There are, of course, plenty of other options when purchasing rosé from elsewhere in Europe and in the United States. Outside of France, the regions of Navarra and Rioja in Northern Spain make delicious rosados — though rosé is not the big focus there as it is in Provence and Tavel. In my earlier column about Finger Lakes wine, for example, I mentioned that wineries in that region make rosés, and I have purchased quite a few — though I did have the chance to taste them first, which I recommend.

Be warned that rosé is sometimes an afterthought for wineries. The best red wine grapes go to the red wines, leaving lesser quality grapes for rosés. Some other wine regions in France use the saignée method: draining some juice off the skins after limited contact and bottling it as a rosé, while leaving the rest of the juice on the skins to make a more powerful red wine. And let’s be clear with this method: the red wine is the true focus; the rosé is bottled quick and cheap for short-term income, while the red ages in barrels for months or years before bottling.

Personally, I’d rather drink a rosé that was the focus of the winemaker, which is why I mentioned Provence and Tavel. Bottom line: unless you have a chance to taste before you buy, try a rosé from a region known for the style — and dump that White Zinfandel bottle. For a picnic or hot summer day, a dry rosé is tough to beat.

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Unpacking the curious case of Cru Bourgeois

Wine can be one of the great pleasures of life. Unfortunately, the potential oenophile can be turned off early in the game by the baffling array of label designations. Some wines are promoted by the region in which they’re grown. Some are named according to the type of grape, or varietal, that comprises the wine. Still others have generic or proprietary names for blends of different wines.

The French, of course, make wine classifications even more confusing. The Cru Bourgeois label, for example, is a superb entry point into the Bordeaux style. However, “Cru Borgeois” has meant different things over the last 80 years or so.

First, some background on Bordeaux itself. The Bordeaux wine region of southwest France is situated along the Garonne River to the south and the Dordogne River to the north, near the city of Bordeaux. Both rivers flow from southeast to northwest, merging just north of the city to form the Gironde, which empties into the Atlantic Ocean at the Bay of Biscay. The region is divided into three areas: the Left Bank which encompasses wineries on the southwest side of the Garonne and Gironde; the Right Bank which includes wineries to the north and east of the Dordogne; and the area between the rivers, called “Entre-Deux-Mers” (French for “between two seas”). The Left Bank is further divided into Médoc (north of the city of Bordeaux) and Graves (south of the city).

Each region has further subdivisions — names you might recognize, like Haut-Médoc, Saint-Emillon, and Pomerol — which are called appellations (from “appellation d’origine contrôlée,” meaning “controlled designation of origin”). Each appellation (or AOC) has its own rules about what grapes are permitted to be planted and how wines can be blended. This is the case for all winegrowing areas in France, not just Bordeaux. For example, in Pomerol, on the Right Bank, only Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, and Cabernet Franc may be planted. Some AOCs require a minimum percentage of each wine be from a certain varietal, while others stipulate a minimum or maximum alcohol content.

Contrast this crazy system of regions and rules to New World winegrowing nations like Australia and the United States, where wine is usually labeled by grape varietal. Wines from Napa Valley aren’t just labeled Napa Valley wine, they’re also labeled Cabernet Sauvignon or Chardonnay. But in Bordeaux, where almost every bottle is a blend, it’s the region that counts. So instead of hearing about how a certain varietal wine tastes, you’ll hear how the wine of an appellation tastes.

Ready for more confusion? In the 1800s, Napoleon III requested a classification system not in terms of region, but quality. This resulted in the Official Classification of 1855, a list of wineries which is still used today. Think about that: the top wineries in 1855 are still considered the best, over 150 years later. The system for red wines is divided into 5 tiers of quality (called “growths,” or the French “crus“). The First Growths, or Premier Cru wine estates, are: Château Lafite, Château Latour, Château Margaux, Château Haut-Brion, and Château Mouton Rothschild. All are in the Médoc region, except Haut-Brion, in Graves. These are followed by 13 Second Growths, 14 Third Growths, 10 Fourth Growths, and 18 Fifth Growths. Together, these are sometimes referred to as “Grand Cru Classes.”

What does all this have to do with Cru Bourgeois? Well, not all of the estates made it into the 1855 classification. So, in 1932, 444 wineries not chosen for the 1855 classification were designated for “Cru Bourgeois” by the Bordeaux Chamber of Commerce and Chamber of Agriculture. This was revised in 2000, reducing the number of wine estates to 247. But lawsuits and court battles brought the whole classification down, and the Cru Bourgeois label was banned from bottles in 2007.

And yet, this tale is still not over. In 2010, the modern, current Cru Bourgeois label was revived and established as “not a classification, but a mark of quality.” Every year, wine estates in the Médoc can apply for the label for any of the red wines they produce. Receiving the mark one year does not guarantee a wine will have that mark the next year (or, forever, as in the 1855 classification). Certain production rules also must be met if a winery desires the Cru Bourgeois label for its wine. An independent body, the slightly Orwellian-sounding Bureau Veritas, was formed to inspect winery facilities and provide for blind tastings by professionals who do not own or have connections to any of the Médoc châteaux (wine estates).

Phew.

So how should this impact your wine buying habits? First of all, Cru Bourgeois provides you a great way to get acquainted with Bordeaux style wines, perhaps the world’s premier wine region, at reasonable prices. And for the most part, you can be guaranteed good quality.

At the risk of seeming cynical, I’ll admit: the Cru Bourgeois label is somewhat of a marketing gimmick. Châteaux not in the 1855 classification certainly want a label to give the aura of prestige that goes along with the finest Bordeaux wines. But the fact that the winery facilities go through inspections and the wines are tasted blind for quality ensure that the offerings are at least good, with the potential for excellent bottles.

There is aging potential for those that prefer to wait for full maturity, but those qualities will vary by producer and vintage. Cru Bourgeois wines, for the most part, are food friendly and make great pairings with rich pork, beef, and lamb dishes.

The 2009 Château La Cardonne, a blend of 50 percent Merlot, 45 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5 percent Cabernet Franc, is a fantastic example. The wine is definitely fruit-forward, with fresh berries and a subtle floral component on the nose. The palate is all fruit at first sip, with lush blackberry, plum, and tart cranberry flavors that give way to hints of earthiness, dark chocolate, and a little leather on the finish. The tannins (which produce that cotton-mouth, puckering sensation when drinking dry wine) are smooth and well integrated.

Wine Spectator awarded this wine 92 points, and I’d probably agree. At $20, it’s a good value, especially considering 92 points is a higher score than some Grand Cru wines received. The wine paired very well with garlic and rosemary grilled lamb, even standing up to those powerful flavors.

Cru Bourgeois is a wine that is accessible to new drinkers of Bordeaux and will likely not disappoint more sophisticated palettes. Look for deals in the $15-to-$25 range.

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Why aren’t you drinking New York wine?

The East Coast has, historically, not exactly been known for fine wine. Over the past half century, most of the eastern United States has been identified with grapes grown for Welch’s grape juice or for syrupy, sickeningly sweet wines. Today, the wineries of the Finger Lakes region of New York are demolishing those old expectations with delicious, sophisticated offerings.

Most of the grapes grown on the East Coast in the past have been either native to North America, like Concord and Niagara, or are a hybrid of native and European wine grapes. Wines made from native vines are, for lack of a better word, “grapey”: they taste like grape juice — or, rather, sweetened alcoholic grape juice. The lesser of the hybrids taste that way, too. Both often exhibit what winos call a “foxy” character: a musty, wild smell, like a closet full of fur coats. Not exactly appetizing when thinking about something to drink with dinner.

So why plant these grapes? A big part of the reason is climate. Native and French-American hybrid grapes have a higher tolerance for cold winters and hot, humid summers. Grapevines are particularly susceptible to various fungal infections (or “rots”), and the humid climate of much of the East Coast encourages their growth. Areas south of northern Virginia are mostly out of the question for European wine grapes.

The opposite problem occurs in the Northeast, where winters get too cold for grapevines to survive. (And it is still too muggy in the summer.) Another hurdle has been phylloxera: the tiny, sap-sucking insects native to the soils of eastern North America that feast on certain grapevine roots including — you guessed it — the European varieties. Native grapes are immune, as are some of the French-American hybrids. But in Europe, where phylloxera did not exist before the late 1800s — when the pest arrived via boat and destroyed most of the vineyards, especially in France — many of the vines were susceptible. As European varieties proved to be unsuccessful in America, vintners in the East planted what they knew they could grow.

While native and hybrid grapes have dominated vineyards along the East Coast for years, there has been a very slow-but-steady march toward trying to grow European wine grapes, like the great fruits of Bordeaux and Burgundy, and, later, varieties like Napa and Sonoma that are renowned on the West Coast. Even grapes like Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, Riesling, and Chardonnay are being grown now on the East Coast.

The rise of fine Eastern wines has been in step with advances in technology and agricultural techniques. Better planting, vigilant maintenance, improved fungicides, and successful grafting — the process of attaching the European varieties to the roots of a phylloxera-resistant vine — have all contributed to growing wine grapes in less-than-ideal regions.

This effort started in the Finger Lakes region of central New York state, near the picturesque towns of Ithaca and Geneva. (Over time, more wine regions along the East Coast have popped up, like Loudoun County, Virginia, Long Island, the Hudson Valley, and the Niagara Escarpment.) The Finger Lakes — resembling the fingers of a stretched out hand when viewed from above — were created millennia ago by deep glaciers, carving the land as they grew and receded. Keuka, Seneca, and Cayuga Lakes are the largest and best known for winemaking. The stony soils of land sloping down to the lake provide the good drainage that grapevines need. (They don’t like “wet feet.”)

The deep lakes provide a buffer to the changing seasons. In the fall, before the lakes freeze over, the heat trapped in the lake water keeps the nearby vineyards slightly warmer to prevent frost damage before harvest. In the spring, the ice on the lakes keeps the vineyards cold longer, minimizing early growth and the risk of frost damage.

The history of Finger Lakes wine was recently chronicled in Summer in a Glass, a book by Evan Dawson — an insightful and easy read. Russian immigrant Dr. Konstantin Frank was an early pioneer in planting European varieties on Keuka Lake, as far back as 1958. He released his first vintage, a Riesling, in 1962. Hermann J. Wiemer, an immigrant from Germany, was also an important early grower of fine Finger Lakes wine on Seneca Lake. Both wineries are still in operation today, and are among the most successful in the region.

White wines are the real stars in the Finger Lakes. That’s not to say the reds are bad (although some certainly are). Chardonnay is produced by many wineries in abundance, and with quality techniques, but the Rieslings in particular shine bright. Most are dry, clean, racy wines that zing with acidity and evoke a strong flavor profile of citrus and minerality. Rieslings are to the Finger Lakes what Cabernet is to California — the signature wine of the region, the grape best suited to the climate and soil. Those at Hermann J. Wiemer are some of the best — not just in the Finger Lakes, but in the entire United States. Ravines Wine Cellars, down the road from Dr. Konstantin Frank, on Keuka Lake, also produces shockingly good Riesling. Their Dry Riesling was recently named to Wine Spectator’s prestigious Most Exciting Wines list.

Domaine LeSeurre, a brand new winery on Keuka Lake, has created world-class Riesling in their first Finger Lakes vintage. Céline & Sébastien LeSeurre chose the Finger Lakes as their home after working 15 different vintages around the world. Sébastien, from a six-generation winemaking family in Champagne, makes wine that will not disappoint.

If you have dough to spare, try some of the single-vineyard Rieslings. Most of the Riesling in the Finger Lakes come from various vineyards, all brought together to be crushed, juiced, fermented, and bottled. But a few wineries produce Rieslings sourced from a single vineyard, which, tasted next to each other, can produce remarkably different flavors. This is a prized feature among winos, what the French call “terroir“: a sense of place evoked in the wine. For example, a Riesling from one vineyard, where the soil is more gravelly, contains more limestone, and drains more quickly, will have different aromas and flavors than a vineyard whose soil contains more clay. Red Newt Cellars produces four outstanding single-vineyard Rieslings, two dry and two sweet.

Pinot Noir and Cabernet Franc are the best reds. While the big Cabernet Sauvignon wines of California and Shirazes from Australia burst with flavor and tannins, the reds of the Finger Lakes are decidedly more Old World in style: lighter in body and color, with more delicate and nuanced flavors. Heart and Hands Wine Company, on the eastern side of Cayuga Lake, has created world-class Pinot Noir.

Sparkling wine has also taken root in the Finger Lakes, with many wineries now producing dry, Champagne-style bubblers. Red Tail Ridge, on Seneca Lake, has created a Blanc de Noirs and a Sparkling Rosé, both fantastic. Red Tail Ridge has a thirst for experimentation, growing some unfamiliar grape varieties, like Blaufränkisch and Dornfelder from Germany, and Teroldego from Eastern Europe, all while operating in environmentally responsible ways. Oh, and their Pinot Noir, Riesling, and Chardonnays are really good, too.

A four-hour drive from Philadelphia, New York City, and Toronto makes the Finger Lakes a perfect weekend getaway for millions. If you decide to visit, there are plenty of hotels in Ithaca, Watkins Glen, and Geneva, though the region is also full of quaint bed-and-breakfasts. If possible, try to avoid a big race weekend at Watkins Glen speedway. (The traffic is not fun.)

Restaurants are also plentiful, and a few have become nationally recognized, like Suzanne Fine Regional Cuisine, nominated for a James Beard award and recognized annually by Wine Spectator, or the Bistro at Red Newt. For those without the wine craving, there are plenty of outdoor activities, like boating on the lakes or hiking along the waterfalls and canyons of Watkins Glen State Park.

Depending on how serious you are about tasting and how close together the wineries you choose, you’ll probably visit between six and 10 wineries each day. Six is more than enough for some, while others will wish the wineries were open past 5 p.m. so they could visit 11 or 12. Each winery offers wine tastings; a few are free, but most cost from $2 to $5.

Be prepared with water and snacks in the car: you’ll likely drink the equivalent of at least one regular-sized glass of wine at each winery, depending on the size of the pour and how many wines you can taste. Those sips add up quickly. The offseason is a great time to avoid crowds, but the picturesque views in summer and fall are amazing.

So, why aren’t you drinking New York wine? Well, if you’re from outside the Mid-Atlantic, it’s probably because the wines are not readily available. While it’s not hard to find Finger Lakes wine in Manhattan restaurants and in liquor stores throughout New York New Jersey, and Pennsylvania, selection is extremely sparse or, more likely, non-existent elsewhere. One thing holding many Finger Lakes wineries back is volume: limited suitable land around the lakes restricts how much wine can be produced.

Another problem is reputation. Customers gravitate toward highly regarded wines from Europe or California. Most people have never heard of the Finger Lakes, and if they have, they assume the wine is cheap and sweet. Only recently have the region’s serious wines even been noticed by wine aficionados, finally getting reviews in Wine Spectator and Wine Enthusiast.

The wines are truly great, are finally receiving the recognition they deserve, are usually reasonably priced compared to their European and Californian counterparts. So the next time you’re enjoying a meal at a restaurant, why not ask, “Do you have a Finger Lakes Riesling?”