Author Archives: Mike Hillman

About Mike Hillman

Mike Hillman is the founder, editor, and webmaster of Curiata.com. He was the editor of his high school and college newspapers. Mike lives in Harrisburg, Pa., with his incomparable wife, Carrie, and their dog, Beaker.

seersucker

Derby brings out Modern Southern Gentleman

This Modern Urban Gentleman is decidedly Yankee. Nonetheless, his recent nonstop schedule, filled with many New York minutes, has this gentleman looking forward to the weekend’s annual celebration of Southern gentility: the Kentucky Derby.

Some would apparently argue that Kentucky is not properly Southern. From this Pennsylvanian perspective, the home of bluegrass, bourbon, and Colonel Sanders could be nothing other than the heart and soul of the South. And for this one weekend, we northern gents are free to appropriate the attire, the cuisine, and the airs of our southern compatriots.

The Derby is an unapologetic excuse to throw a Southern-themed party. It’s not hard to fry up whatever protein — catfish, chicken, steak — is in the vicinity, but any proper gentleman will want to have some key details correct as he settles in for a long afternoon of sipping and basking in the mid-spring sunshine. And what better way to enjoy those rays of warmth than in the outfit seemingly created for this very event: the seersucker suit.

In truth, seersucker has its roots in India, where British colonials needed a breathable fabric to stay cool while still preserving that stuffy aura so essential to being a Brit. The word is from kheer aur shakkar, meaning “rice pudding and sugar.” That evocative description is apt for a material that puckers to raise it away from the skin and allow airflow.

Not surprisingly, the material became a hit among the lower class of the American South, where the ability to blend with the aristocracy was valued, and the relatively inexpensive seersucker could be fashioned into suits for the poor. In a proto-hipster move, the monied youth of the South began wearing seersucker ironically, and it became de rigueur for all classes.

From the days of Atticus Finch through the early 2000s, a man in a seersucker suit might have been laughed out of his yacht club north of the Mason-Dixon. But the last decade has brought a reborn seersucker to hip urban gents. With muted hues, sleeker lapels, and a tighter silhouette, the seersucker suit is becoming a viable summer garment.

The Modern Urban Gentleman last year purchased the Ludlow suit in Japanese seersucker from J. Crew. When properly accessorized, with navy or washed-out hues and brown shoes, a fabric that used to be a bold proclamation is instead an understated, elegant, office-ready warm-weather option. That makes it a worthwhile investment.

But for Derby time, understated goes out the window. The proper swagger of a Derby-ready gentleman requires a seersucker suit with all the bells and whistles. This means a statement bow tie (but no red — too Pee Wee), white or off-white bucks (no socks), and a boater. Add a rose boutonniere since this is, after all, the Run for the Roses.

A word on those shoes: the Modern Urban Gentleman is quite satisfied with his Florsheim Men’s Kearny Oxford, now seemingly available only in taupe; find something along these lines to root the suit. Bucks are made of nubuck or suede leather, which require serious care. If it rains on the Derby parade, find alternative footwear. Also, invest in a suede brush for various soft leather shoe needs.

Of course, no party is a party without lubrication. Luckily, each of the Triple Crown races has an official cocktail, and none is more storied than the Derby’s mint julep. Its archaeological record traces to at least 1784, and the drink was introduced to our nation’s capital by Sen. Henry Clay of, unsurprisingly, Kentucky.

The mint julep has four essential ingredients: mint leaf, bourbon whiskey, sugar, and water. Spearmint is the mint of choice, but others can be substituted based on local availability; freshness is the primary factor here. The brand of bourbon is open to personal preference, though the corporate-bought “official” choice of the Derby, Woodford Reserve, is an excellent option. For the recipe, refer to Esquire’s fine rendition, but don’t be afraid to experiment and find a personal method as the afternoon drifts by.

As for the race itself, do a bit of homework. Tune in to the NBC Sports Network at 5 Eastern this evening to learn the post positions and begin deciding which horse’s name sounds most bad-ass. Or, for the more serious, look into the real factors that may determine the winner. Keep in mind that a horse with good odds will probably win; no one is going to become a millionaire on a long shot. Most importantly: only risk what a gentleman can afford to lose.

The 2014 Kentucky Derby post time is 6:24 p.m. EDT. If a gentleman’s party is successful, that hour will arrive in a sunburned, intoxicated haze. The race is truly an afterthought. Concentrate instead on the fine drinks, the finer suits, and the company of friends on a beautiful May afternoon.

mm-field-trip

Season 7, Episode 3: ‘Field Trip,’ part 3

Gentlemen, I’ve been lying in wait for something to spark my analytic powers. As I watched “Field Trip,” the minutes flew by and I was rapt by the unfolding drama, but I was confounded by its duality. Why link Don and Betty now? And what really linked the stories in this episode, besides each character taking a titular field trip (or two, in the case of Don going to California and the equally foreign offices of SC&P)?

In my listless drifting in the days since the episode aired, I must admit I’ve taken a peek at some of our peers’ reviews of this episode (you know: GQ, Rolling Stone, The New York Times — the other outlets on our level). Doing so reminded me that either we were all right in high school when we thought our teachers were imparting unintended motives and themes onto long-dead authors’ works, or Mad Men is the genius of a modern-day Shakespeare, Poe, or Steinbeck, playing out right before our eyes.

I’ve been right there with many of the ideas picked up on by the wider critical viewing audience in the first two episodes of the year, but I felt far out of step this week. While I couldn’t latch onto a single solid theme, other’s found countless angles to analyze here: Megan’s confident handling of Don contrasted with her desperation in show business; Peggy’s lingering grudge toward Don, the roots of which have all but receded into nothingness; Joan’s shifting allegiance to Jim from Don; Harry’s scorched-earth approach; Roger’s ever-erratic behavior forcing his partners’ hands once again; Don’s admission to Megan that he didn’t want her to see him in a certain negative light.

It became evident to me that there was so much going on in this episode that my true struggle was figuring out where to put my focus. Even the smallest details have been called out as literary devices: Bobby trades away Betty’s sandwich while, back in Manhattan, Don eats a chicken salad on rye. I feel paralyzed by the sheer volume of significance in each action, camera shot, word, or gaze.

As I said earlier, nothing confounded me more than the continued saga of Betty Hofstadt Draper Francis. She seems an afterthought to the main narrative at this point. I came around to the view that she is being used as the backdrop to illuminate the personalities of the Draper children, to showcase their reflection of their father’s traits and the psychological damage he has inflicted on them. After all, that seemed to be the trajectory of Sally’s story last week. But Bobby has had less opportunity to be disappointed by his father. Instead, it’s Betty’s imperialism that continues to reign over the poor boy. I don’t see this week’s edition as Bobby-as-Don, but as yet another exploration of Betty.

I’ve come to believe the writers feel they owe Betty’s character some closure. I feel the show could have packed her away with the divorce, giving us the occasional cameo when Don had to pick up the kids. Instead, we got Fat Betty, and fish-out-of-water-in-the-Village Betty, and now Betty on the Farm. Her maternal abilities were called out this week, and she responded by chaperoning a field trip — a chance at character development that would edge us toward that closure the writers may be seeking. Instead, Betty showed herself again to be unable to perceive the love being thrown at her by Bobby. Instead, Betty showed herself again to be more concerned with being perceived as a good mother than with being one.

Coming out of this episode, I can clearly see the progressive strides Don has made over the course of a decade. It seems that those around him are either trapped in their unhappiness, like Betty, or veering off the tracks, like Roger, Peggy, and Megan. I fear for the health of the people around Don, not the man himself. I also fear for myself as I try to keep up with the brilliance and the layers of meaning packed into each hour of this program each Sunday night.

life-partners

Search for Life Partners deftly downplays sexuality

The 2014 Tribeca Film Festival turns a spotlight on LGBT themes, with no fewer than 10 films explicitly focusing on the subject. In the limited time I had at the Festival, I decided I had to see one of those films, both to evaluate how it treated sexual orientation and because of the compelling cast attached to it.

(Incidentally, two of the five “non-LGBT” movies I screened this weekend also had important sexuality-related storylines.)

Life Partners, from director and writer Susanna Fogel, co-written by Joni Lefkowitz, widens its scope beyond what many entries in the queer cinema genre typically tackle. The film explores both lesbian and heterosexual partnerships while, at its core, remaining a tale centered on friendship. I found the movie to be an amusing, if by-the-numbers, romp through modern-day relationships of several sorts.

Life Partners tells the story of two best friends — one gay, one straight — searching for love while on the verge of turning 30. When Paige, played by Gillian Jacobs, meets Tim (Adam Brody) and their relationship begins to turn serious, Leighton Meester’s Sasha finds herself competing for the attention of the woman who had been the anchor of her life.

As the push-and-tug of this dynamic unfolds, the girls’ two friends, Jen and Jenn, engage in endless catty behavior that sends waves through the community’s all-too-interconnected lesbian scene. Gabourey Sidibe is Jen, self-assured and with an affinity for neon-colored plastic-frame eyeglasses. Beth Dover plays “Two-N Jenn,” the annoyingly clueless, comic-relief, Karen-from-Mean-Girls character found in too many female-centric movies. The Jens provide a few laughs, a B-plot or two, and a conflict that nudges the story toward resolution, but they are not well-fleshed-out roles — nor are they particularly original or funny as secondary characters.

Two Saturday Night Live veterans, Abby Elliott and Kate McKinnon, give delightful turns as over-the-top lesbians who find themselves entangled with Sasha and the Jens. Both actresses play their parts well, with Elliott in the meatier role. McKinnon especially nails the comedy as an absurdly aggressive and confident tomboy.

The structure of the story throws very few surprises our way. All the requisite hurt feelings, misunderstandings, and readjustments to new situations are there. Paige and Sasha’s character flaws are not as run of the mill, however, and the development they experience to overcome those shortfalls is satisfyingly scripted.

Paige demonstrates just how large the gulf between the two friends has become when she attempts to set Sasha up with a coworker. The scheme goes predictably wrong, and Paige shows herself to be less interested in Sasha’s happiness than in fixing all the “problems” around her. Many relationships have a “fixer;” Paige has the tendency to direct the narrative of all those in her gravitational pull, introducing friction into her interactions with Sasha, Tim, and even her neighbor (Mark Feuerstein).

For her part, Sasha must overcome her codependency on Paige before she can pursue a serious romantic connection. That tendency to codependence is reinforced by Sasha’s knack for repeatedly finding herself with women who still live with their parents. In fact, though Sasha does not live with her own parents, she does enjoy their continued financial support as she clings to a long-held — and potentially outgrown — aspiration to be a musician. The safety nets provided by her parents and Paige have prevented Sasha from stepping through that last rite of initiation into adulthood.

The Paige/Sasha friendship is a nice window into the sort of female relationship we don’t often get to see on film. Unfortunately, the chemistry between Jacobs and Meester never quite clicked for me. It seemed as if the two women were acting at each other, delivering lines back and forth with a playful, self-conscious twinkle in their eyes. Clearly, those involved with the movie had fun making it, and that translates into a film that’s also fun to watch. But in this instance, camaraderie does not equate to cohesion.

The central success of Life Partners is that it is a film about lesbians without being a lesbian film. I am far outside my depth, being a heterosexual, cisgendered male, to pontificate on the state of the portrayal of lesbians in modern media. Perhaps some LGBT activists will be disappointed that this movie is not more blatantly pro-gay.

For my part, I appreciated the respectful characterization of Paige and Adam’s connection as well as the lesbian-positive perspectives. Countless Lifetime movies have demonstrated how easy it is to demonize the males in a girl-power flick, but Life Partners studiously avoids the trope.

While I may poke holes in some of the other unoriginalities and the stilted interplay of the actors, Fogel and Lefkowitz have created consistent, realistic characters with flaws that are nuanced and familiar to all. Those accomplishments, combined with the refreshing nonchalance toward lesbianism in all its varieties, make Life Partners a film that will tell an important story about growing into a mature adult, capable of both independence and commitment, to many young women regardless of their sexuality.

about-alex

About Alex speaks to mid-20s anxieties

With an of-the-moment cast and a story dealing with familiar, earnest emotions, About Alex, written and directed by Jesse Zwick in his feature film debut, is sure to satisfy its target urban, young audience. Some of its themes, however, are introduced with a lack of subtlety that brings the film to several halting stops.

The movie, which premiered April 17 at the Tribeca Film Festival, lays bear the complexities of post-collegiate life, when friends have fanned out across the country to deal with new circumstances and deep-seated anxieties without the support structure they had grown to rely on. The challenges are proving to be too much for Alex (Jason Ritter), whose suicide attempt as the film opens brings the gang back together for a weekend at an upstate cabin. As the six old college friends — and a controversial plus-one — gather to support one another, flames are reignited, personalities clash, and bonds are stretched to the limit.

The ensemble cast is uneven, with some players falling short of their potential, but the story compensates with its eminently familiarity to anyone who has tried to recapture the “glory days” that can never be reproduced. Max Greenfield as Josh and Nate Parker as Ben steal the show with the sincere, struggling men they bring to life.

Josh is an insufferable academic, bent on confronting uncomfortable feelings and awkward situations head-on. His blunt approach forces the other characters to deal with raw emotions and keeps everyone on edge for the entire weekend.

(Greenfield, with thick glasses and a scruffy beard, bears a physical resemblance in this film to Jeff Goldblum, who is name-checked in the movie — and who, coincidentally, attended the same screening I did.)

It is through Josh that Zwick delivers some heavy-handed philosophizing on the nature of relationships, depression, and the difficulties of growing into full-fledged men and women. The themes are tackled just a bit too opaquely, turning a couple of days at a cabin into occasional graduate-level seminar discussions that disrupt the flow of the film.

The plot carries on, though, and throws in a few twists to give Parker the meat he needs to make Ben the most interesting character in the movie. Ben is a promising young writer — or he was, before a yearlong bout of writer’s block that has opened his Pandora’s box of anxieties about his skills and his ability to maintain relationships both with his friend, Alex, and his girlfriend, Siri (Maggie Grace).

Siri, meanwhile, has landed a dream fellowship in Los Angeles. However, the love of her life, Ben, is convinced he must stay in New York for his career. Their relationship is strained, a fact that is evident to everyone at the cabin, adding to the uncomfortable feelings all around. Things only get more complicated as heightened emotions are stretched to the breaking point.

Aubrey Plaza plays the frenetic Sarah, a quirky, sweet girl with a compulsion for romantic entanglements. Either Plaza struggles to distinguish herself from her character on Parks and Recreation or she was cast in the role because of the similarities. Either way, I never quite saw Plaza merge into the character as opposed to portraying her.

The sixth member of the group, Isaac (Max Minghella), has strayed farthest from his college days, becoming an Italian-shoe-wearing, hedge-fund-trading, potential Republican (!) in San Francisco. Other than some minor sexual tension with Sarah, Isaac’s only addition to the film was to bring his young girlfriend, Kate (Jane Levy), on the trip.

Kate works for a suicide prevention hotline, adding a professional voice to the attempted suicide that looms over the entire get-together. Levy makes the most of the role she is given, creating a cute, self-conscious, wise-beyond-her-years wild card among the six friends who have grown accustomed to their own predictable interactions.

As the weekend unfolds, it becomes clear that any of the core six could have been the one slitting his or her wrists in the bathtub at the outset of the film. Each is struggling to cope with the overwhelming pressure of immediate professional and personal fulfillment that so often feels like a requirement of one’s mid-20s. That feeling will be familiar to much of the target audience, and with the star power of Grace, Greenfield, Plaza, and Ritter among that particular cohort, the movie will become a piece of the nostalgia so fiercely despised by Greenfield’s Josh when that demographic looks back 10 years from now.

The larger audience will find a film full of challenging questions and charming humor. Zwick proves himself adept at ratcheting up tension and breaking it with well-constructed absurdity and sarcasm. If his future efforts can more deftly weave his heavy themes into the fabric of his films, he will succeed in producing interesting and challenging works.

In this first effort, Zwick has created a fine film and a worthy entry in the Tribeca Film Festival. About Alex is funny, thought-provoking, and entertaining — but not without its flaws.

mm-s7e2

Season 7, Episode 2: ‘A Day’s Work,’ part 3

For the first time in seven years, a black character was given a substantial plot and character development on this week’s episode of Mad Men. In fact, Dawn and Shirley even spoke to each other, allowing the show to finally satisfy the Black-del test.

I find it appropriate that Dawn was so central to this week’s outing because the episode was all about the dawning of new days for our heroes. “A Day’s Work” brings into relief the transitions of several characters from one stage of their lives to another. Don is, of course, attempting to transition from the role we’ve seen him in for six years into a more even-tempered, sober, loving man. He is being critically aided in that journey by his daughter’s own evolution.

Sally is outside the oppressive bubble of Betty Francis. The complexities and nuances of life are beginning to register for her. She has been forced to confront death. (Remember she was shielded from her grandfather’s several years ago, and Don still doesn’t want her attending funerals.) She has seen adultery and robbery firsthand. The relationships Sally must navigate with Glen Bishop and with her classmates at boarding school are introducing her to the politics of life her father has mastered so well. She has edged her way under the tent flap and has a sense of how hard it is to be a grown-up. She can finally empathize with her father. She can finally love him instead of resent him.

Unfortunately, we are seeing a new dawn for Peggy Olson as well, and it’s not looking like it’s going to be filled with sunshine. Peggy demonstrated a disappointing, infuriating self-centered-ness in this episode. She could not even conceive of the notion that her secretary might be receiving flowers on Valentine’s Day. She could not see the lengths to which Shirley went to avoid hurting Peggy’s feelings. And when the truth was revealed, Peggy reacted like a spoiled child, completely disregarding Shirley and turning the situation into a poor-Peggy moment. I felt anything but “poor Peggy.” Ted’s jilting and L… what’s his name? Lyle? Lucky? Oh, Lou! — Lou’s suffocation have driven Peggy into Draper-like egotistical fits.

I think, ironically, it is Don who will set Peggy on track to success as a passionate but stable creative director and junior partner by series’ end. Peggy might also loosen up when she finally gets laid by either Stan or Ginsberg.

There were other transitions, too: Dawn to office manager, Joan to account “man,” Roger to professional (if not personal) impotency. I’m not sure where Pete’s headed, but it may just be the loony bin.

What was not a transition or out of place was Bert Cooper’s racism. I mean, keep in mind that if Cooper is as old as Robert Morse, the man was born in 1886 during the Cleveland administration. The first Cleveland administration!

I do believe Joan or another partner should have stepped in during the “rearranging” for the sake of enlightening Mr. Cooper and positioning SC&P for the new reality of 1969 and the decade to come, but I suspect that little speck of discrimination was simply a plot concession to move Joan around the chessboard toward the ever-approaching endgame.

Red carpet photos from the world premiere of X/Y, a new film by Ryan Piers Williams, also starring:

  • America Ferrera
  • Jon Paul Phillips
  • Melonie Diaz
  • Dree Hemingway
  • Alina Puscau
  • Danny Deferrari
  • Adam Rapp
  • Alex Wise
  • Special guest Judith Light
  • and photos of other cast and crew

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