Category Archives: drink

beer

Out with old, in with new? Trappist ale vs. craft tripel

There has never been a final agreement on which is better: the classic, old, tried-and-true way of doing things, or the new, improved, “groundbreaking” way. The debate unfolds in many areas of human endeavor, including in the production of wine, beer, and spirits, and there are partisans on both sides.

I guess circumstances determine a lot in the argument, though. Consider technology: Most people will go out and purchase the newest, most up-to-date techy device, sometimes dropping hundreds of dollars just to have the latest, “greatest” whatever-it-is. We assume that when a new technological marvel is invented and released, it must be an improvement over what came before, the previous glitches fixed and new applications available to us. The iPhone 6 will make prior versions obsolete, just like digital media has done to most vinyl records, eight-track tapes, audio and video cassettes, CDs, DVDs, and more.

But it’s not like that with everything. Remember New Coke? When Coca-Cola tinkered with the formula of its flagship soft drink in the 1980s, the backlash was swift and overwhelming: Coca-Cola “Classic” was on the shelves within three months, and New Coke was nothing more than a case study in marketing textbooks by the 1990s.

So, which argument prevails in the brewing of beer?

Beer is an ancient but constantly evolving beverage that has craft-brewing practitioners biting at the bit to branch out and risk it all to make something new and never-tasted. Take, for example, Rogue Voodoo Doughnut Bacon Maple Ale — surely and truly a challenge to the palate of even the most skilled beer drinker. And I’m still not sure about trying Belgium’s Smisje Wostyntje Mustard Ale. It seems that the reigns have been loosened quite a bit in the new craft beer renaissance; brewers with eccentric vision are pursuing what would have once been illegal.

All these innovations are exciting and, in many cases, a novelty. I appreciate what the craft beer movement is doing, while I maintain a certain respect for brewers who have taken to focusing their beer-crafting skills on taking a tried-and-true style of brew that is already near perfection and attempting to reproduce it with the highest quality of care and diligence.

I recently was able to get my hands on a large bottle of a 2012 vintage Goose Island Brewing Company Matilda, a Belgian-style, golden tripel ale. I thought it would be interesting to drink it side-by-side with a proven and respected Belgian Trappist tripel ale, such as the Westmalle Tripel. I wanted to compare the Old-World recipe with a New-World interpretation. It turned out to be a gratifying experience.

First, a little about each beer:

Representing the Old World, Westmalle Tripel is not only a conventional Belgian-style ale, but it is one brewed in the proud tradition of the Trappist monks at Westmalle Abbey, who oversee every aspect of its production, from picking the choicest hops, yeast, and malt, to the brewing, bottling, and sale of the product. Trappist beers are revered the world over because of their intensity and the attention to detail given to flavor, carbonation, and overall quality craftsmanship. Westmalle is no exception.

According to the historical records of the abbey, monks at Westmalle started brewing beer for their own use back in 1836, but this recipe was first brewed and served in 1934. The current formula has been unchanged for close to 60 years. This beer is nicknamed the “mother of all tripels” by the monks who brew it with simplicity in mind. At 9.5 percent alcohol by volume (ABV), this strong, top-fermentation, classic blonde beer consists of only five ingredients: water, malt, sugar, yeast, and hops. The exact ratio of these ingredients in the formula is kept under tight wraps by the monks. Only the handful of monks that actually work in the brewery know the exact mixture.

Representing the New World is Goose Island Brewing Company, a prominent, Chicago-based craft brewery that thrived during the 1990s and 2000s. Goose Island was recently purchased by Anheuser-Busch InBev, allowing the company to really expand its product availability in recent years. Their Matilda beer, at 7 percent ABV and between 26 to 32 International Bitterness Units (IBU), is a multi-award-winning, Belgian-style tripel ale.

Goose Island recommends aging the beer and says it can continue, under the right conditions, to develop in the bottle for up to five years. Its wild spice and fruit accents make it a unique beer. Matilda has been brewed since the early 2000s but was, until around 2010, not available in wide release. Beer critics on Beer Advocate liken it to popular Belgian strong ales such as La Chouffe.

For the tasting of these beers, I tried them one after the other. I drank the Westmalle first, because it was a beer I have had in the past and was more familiar with; the Matilda was a new beer to me. Both beers were drunk from a Trappist-style chalice glass.

My tasting notes

Westmalle Tripel (2014 bottling): On the pour, golden, but cloudy and yeasty in color with a foamy head (a slow, angled pour is recommended). Great effervescence and a wafting, subtle aroma of hops, dried fruit, and nutmeg. The first sip can be a shock if you’ve never had a strong Belgian ale before. (I liken it to someone who tries a Delirium Tremens or Duvel for the first time and realizes that, while it may have the color of Budweiser, it is most definitely not Budweiser; it is much more powerful.) But it smooths out quickly, and you are left with a satisfying, refreshing drink. The hops are strong, but not I.P.A. strong; they sit on the tongue just long enough to be noticed. It has a classic finish and a lasting aftertaste. Rating: A

Goose Island Matilda (2012 bottling): On the pour, slightly darker golden/amber color than Westmalle, but far less opaque; noticeably less unfiltered yeast present in the bottle. On the nose, it was quite different. This beer reminds me of autumn: heavy on spiced nutmeg, ginger, and clove — maybe even some cinnamon in there. Even before I tasted it, I had the impression of much more complexity. The hops level is similar to or slightly less than the Westmalle, but the combination of spice and nuttiness was much more prevalent. There was a sweetness factor that had not registered with the first beer, too. (My theory is that this beer has less yeast and, therefore, less of the sugar was broken down and turned to alcohol — but I have no evidence to back that up.) Where this beer seemed to yield more on the side of complex and intense flavors, I feel the spiciness of it made it less refreshing, overall. The beer is already two years old but, based on its intensity, I feel it could probably withstand another year or two of bottle aging and still be enjoyable. Rating: A-

wineclip

What We’re Pouring: June 4, 2014

First, a little about the grape: A delicate white grape originally sourced from western France, but is now found growing successfully in most major wine producing regions throughout the world. Predominantly, successful new-world wine regions such as California and New Zealand have found the grape to grow well, especially in warm weather, and produce increasingly popular wines. There are many affordable sauvignon blancs being produced and it is starting to fill shelves at stores more and more due to its popularity. The wine is associated most with spring and summer as it is a light, delicately refreshing wine with a citrus zest that is best served chilled. It is perfect by itself, but can also compliment light-fare dishes, nuts, cheeses, and seafood. I drank three different, but pleasing new-world sauvignon blancs last week that are sure to satisfy the casual wine drinker.

 

WINERY: Constellation Brands (a mega-huge wine outfit, the Simply Naked is one of their brands marketed to U.S. consumers)
WINE NAME: 2011 Simply Naked: Unoaked Sauvignon Blanc
REGION: New Zealand (east coast)
VARIETAL: 100% Sauvignon Blanc
ABV: 12.5%
NOTES: The wine is huge on the tropic/citrus fruit. It is apparent as soon as the faux cork is removed; it is very potent on the nose, at first. There is a perfume/floral element that hits later, but it is not as overwhelming as the fruit. The intense fruit on first sip doesn’t linger long and the wine has little sustainability after that, but it’s appropriate for this lighter wine. The color is of Welch’s white grape juice or a light pilsner beer. This is an all steel tank fermentation process, so (unlike a more tradition Loire Valley style), there is no oak flavor. The wine maker claims a bit of lat minerality on the finish, but I got none of that. It was an easy-to-drink, refreshing wine, and at $8 to $9 a bottle, it’s easy on the wallet. If you like a lot of initial fruit punch to your wine, this is definitely worth a bottle or two. I didn’t pair it with anything, but could see it going well with a plate of soft cheese and even some dijon mustard on crackers, but honestly, it might just be best by itself. The wine, while intense on the fruit at first, is overall, weak, and might get lost amongst food that is too complex. Just speculation, but the 2011 vintage could very well be past its prime. C+ ~JW

 

WINERY: Michael Mondavi Family
WINE NAME: 2012 Oberon Sauvignon Blanc
REGION: Napa Valley, California
VARIETAL: about 76% Sauvignon Blanc and 24% Sauvignon Blanc Musque
ABV: 13.7%
NOTES: This one is about as robust as you can get with a sauvignon blanc. The slightly higher alcohol (as compared to the Simply Naked) gives it a zest and heightens the grapefruit flavor. I feel that this one could actually pair with a meal (of white fish or shellfish, perhaps even a grilled salmon with a yogurt-dill sauce) as the wine has enough power to cut-through and not become lost in the flavors of the meal. The acid is prominent, but gives way to an agreeable earthiness, like grass or salad, that was missing from the previous wine. A pale golden color, like apple juice. This steel-tank, cole-fermented wine yields to a slightly sour aftertaste, but not one that is unpleasant. I’d liken the slightly sour finish to Granny Smith apples. Of the three, this was the most well-rounded by itself. It’s a best buy, too, at around $12 to $13 a bottle. The wine was a little tight, and while most mass-marketed, steel-fermented sauvignon blancs are really meant for immediate drinking, this one, I feel, could maybe last it out another year or two. Wine Advocate recently gave this wine an 89, which prompted me to try it. I have to agree. B+ ~JW

 

WINERY: Root: 1 (The Original Ungrafted) of the Vi¤a Ventisquero Estate Winery
WINE NAME: 2012 Root: 1 Sauvignon Blanc
REGION: Valle de Casablanca, Chile
VARIETAL: 100% Sauvignon Blanc
ABV: 13%
NOTES: Very pale yellow, paler than the others tried, but yields a good potency upon first removing the twist-off cap and taking the initial sip. It is extremely similar in taste to the Oberon, although this one gets the added minerality on the sides of the tongue, more like a French produced sauvignon blanc. According the winemaker’s website, the appellation contains high amounts of red and black clay soil types that might contribute to this flavor. Like the others, there is a pronounced emphasis on citrus (primarily grapefruit and lemon) that are the main driving force in this wine. The acidity cuts, providing a full range of pairing possibilities. I had this wine along with some grilled vegetables and tilapia, and while I feel the Oberon might have complimented this meal better, I was not at a loss with this wine. It was refreshing and the acid lingered long enough to enjoy it. This one is for fans of citrus fruit heavy wines. A very affordable wine, too, at around $10 a bottle. B ~JW

 

WINERY: Hogue Cellars
VARIETAL: 100% Gewurztraminer
VINTAGE: 2011
REGION: Columbia Valley, Washington State
ABV: 12.2%
NOTES: Light golden in color, floral aromas are detected almost instantly. But after the initial floral attack, the nose has nice fruit characteristics: pineapple, grapefruit, and lemon. On the palate, it is not nearly as intense as most Gewurztraminers, more like off-dry in style rather than bone dry. Orange/tangerine, lychee, and tart apple on the palate, with hints of honey and clove, and a refreshing bit of astringent tea on the finish. More of a floral/citrus Gewurz, without the heavy spice character commonly found, and the hint of sweetness makes it a great pairing with spicy asian cuisine. $11 B+ ~BG

 

WINERY: Red Newt Cellars
VARIETAL: 100% Riesling
DESIGNATION: Bullhorn Creek Vineyard
VINTAGE: 2011
REGION: Finger Lakes, New York
ABV: 12.2%
NOTES: Single-vineyard Riesling from the Finger Lakes. Light yellow in the glass, the nose has an enticing honeysuckle aroma, combined with hints of melon and apple. On the palate, the acidity is fairly intense and mouthwatering, and the wine is slightly off-dry. Flavors of tart apple, lychee, and pear strike first, with a delicious, refreshing citrus finish, especially lime. The layers of fleshy fruit up front, followed by the intense citrus acidity creates a really outstanding balance. $20 A- ~BG

 

WINERY: Decoy by Duckhorn Vineyards
WINE NAME: Red Blend
VINTAGE: 2011
REGION: Napa Valley, California
VARIETAL: 47% Merlot, 36% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc, 7% Petit Verdot
ABV: 13.5%
NOTES: This red blend pours inky dark crimson in the glass, with plenty of dark berry fruits on the nose. Mostly blackberry and black cherry, with hints of blueberry, along with dark chocolate and a little bit of baked pie crust. On the palate more of the same dark fruit, intertwined with hints of earth, leather, and spice. Finish is a bit weak, but overall enjoyable. $20 B ~BG

 

WINERY: 14 Hands
VINTAGE: 2011
REGION: Washington State
VARIETAL: 100% Riesling
ABV: 11%
NOTES: Sweeter than I expected, the wine pours a very pale yellow in the glass. Fruity melon and peach on the nose, with tart apple, peach, and pear dominant flavors on the palate. I had this wine with swordfish, and found myself wishing for less sugar, more acidity and more mineral flavors. The flavors are pleasing but simplistic. Probably not a good choice for pairing with a main course, but as an apertif, it would be fine. $11 C+ ~BG

santorini_grapes

Sampling Santorini: Wine from hot, dry Greek islands

Not too long ago, wine from Greece was shunned and degraded. “Greek wine tastes like mouthwash,” a fellow diner in a restaurant once told me. Indeed, there was a time when most Greek wines were harsh and unpolished offerings. But in recent decades, the quality has improved dramatically.

The tiny Greek islands may seem like an odd place to grow wine grapes compared to the wide open spaces of France and Tuscany. The islands are small and cramped, with little area to plant new vines. The Mediterranean climate is almost tropically humid, with relentless, baking sunlight, little rainfall, and high winds. Most resources are devoted to the tourism industry, leaving little behind for agriculture.

But the islands have multiple advantages. First, despite the humidity, the growing season is long and warm. The poor soil quality, composed mostly of rock and volcanic ash, is actually an asset; grapevines produce the best fruit for wine when they struggle. With readily available water and nutrients in the soil, vines grow like weeds, producing lots of green leafy growth, and poor quality, watery grapes. But when they must struggle to survive, the energy of the vine is focused on reproduction — which means a focus on the seed-containing grape.

Secondly, this rocky, volcanic soil on most Greek islands is immune to a number of pests and diseases that wreak havoc almost everywhere else. The tiny, aphid-like phylloxera insects are nowhere to be found due to the total absence of clay in the soil. This is a substantial advantage, considering phylloxera destroyed almost every acre of vineyards in Europe in the 19th century (an unfortunate transplant from the New World). Afterwards, Vitis vinifera (wine) grapevines were forced to be grafted onto phylloxera-resistant roots. But in the Greek islands, some roots have been growing for centuries. Even if the vine itself grows too old to produce quality fruit, a new young vine is grafted onto the roots. The roots are incredibly valuable here, since they have grown down so deep in the loose rocky soil in search of moisture.

But what about the lack of rainfall? The high winds? And the relentless sun? The industrious Greek growers have found a workaround for all three in the way they grow the vines. In most places on the planet, vines are trained upward, off the ground. Many different training styles exist, such as head training, where the vines are grown in the shape of a goblet, or trellis systems, where vine trunks are grown straight up and arms are grown outward along wires. Both systems have a primary goal: get the vines off the ground, where moisture, pests, and diseases lurk.

On the Greek islands, however, there are very few of any of these issues, so the vines are trained on the ground. The vines are directed in small circles on the ground, forming a rough basket shape. This low, sturdy structure avoids problems with the wind; the basket shape traps a small amount of moisture that the vines can absorb, and the grapes are pushed toward the inside of the basket, allowing the vine and leaves on the outside to shield the fruit from the sun.

I had the great opportunity to visit Greece and the best Greek island for winemaking, Santorini, in 2010. Touring several different wineries, it was somewhat puzzling to see the grapevines growing. The vines, growing in disorderly, almost random locations, are a far cry from the neat and tidy vineyards of France and California, where long, perfectly parallel rows of trellises prevail. There is no grass or ground cover, no weeds, nothing around the vines, just rocky earth. It’s a rustic style, doing only what is necessary to make very good quality wine. No energy (or water) is wasted on appearances.

Santorini, a crescent-shaped island, is a shell of its former self. Originally a normal, round shape, the island was actually a massive volcano which erupted catastrophically over 3,500 years ago. The center of the island dropped down beneath the surface of the water after the volcano erupted, leaving only the high steep cliffs that remain. Some say this volcanic eruption is the source of the Lost City of Atlantis myth, while others claim the eruption wiped out the Minoan civilization on Crete, the result of a massive tsunami.

Whites are the better known wines from Santorini and see greater production than reds. Assyrtiko is produced the most, along with Aidini and Athiri. While most white wine grapes lose acidity as they ripen, Assyrtiko does not. As a result, the wine can be both full-bodied and acidic and typically has a very refreshing flavor profile of citrus fruit and — surprise! — rocky minerality.

White wines on Santorini are usually called “Santorini” or “Nykteri.” Santorini wines must be at least 75 percent Assyrtiko and are typically unoaked. Nykteri, Greek for “working the night away,” is traditionally harvested at night, and also must be at least 75 percent Assyrtiko. The main difference between the two is the aging process; for Nykteri, that includes a minimum of three months in oak barrels. Both are very dry and acidic.

Red wine was, at one point, almost extinct on Santorini. With vineyard land being sold off to build apartments and hotels for tourism and the overwhelming preference for growing the more demanded Assyrtiko, red grapes like Mavrotragano were all but abandoned. What red grapes were grown were typically used for making cheap, sweet wines.

This downward spiral was reversed in the late 1990s and early 2000s when Mavrotragano was produced as a dry fine wine, with critical and popular success. With its thick skins to protect it from the sun, Mavrotragano wine is typically very dark colored, intense, and full bodied, with good aging potential. The flavors are reminiscent of Middle Eastern cuisine, with strong spices, stewed fruits, as well as earth, ash, and leather. Another red varietal, Mandilaria, is also grown.

Finally, Santorini produces a signature dessert wine called Vinsanto. The wine must be 51 percent Assyrtiko and is truly a nectar of the gods. Grapes are left on the vine longer than for any other wine, allowing sugar content to rise, and are then dried in the sun for around two weeks before they are crushed, creating very concentrated, sweet juice. The wine is aged in oak for at least two years before it can be bottled. While most dessert wines have very low or almost no acidity at all, the acidity of the Assyrtiko, even when fully ripe, gives this a unique flavor. It is no doubt sweet, but the acidity provides a beautiful balance. As you can imagine, after being in the sun for two weeks, flavors of dried fruits, like raisins, prunes, and apricots, shine through.

Estate Argyros and Domaine Sigalas are both fantastic wineries on Santorini, and their wines are available in the United States. The “Atlantis” series from Argyros would be a good place to start, considering the modest price tag. The series includes a white (90 percent Assyrtiko), a dry rose (80 percent Assyrtiko), and a red (blend of Mandilaria and Mavrotragano). If you can find the 100-percent Assyrtiko or Aidani bottles, definitely try them.

After that, search for the Assyrtiko or the Assyrtiko-Athiri blend from Domaine Sigalas, which are even better than the Argyros wines. They are both well worth the price and will not disappoint, especially with fresh whole fish, on the grill, with olive oil and simple seasonings.

Finally, for a special occasion, treat your closest friends to a sip of Vinsanto from either winery. You won’t be sorry.

Swirl, sniff, sip.

v&v-logo

New drinks, old cars: Favorites from Hershey wine festival

Set amid antique autos from around the world, the Pennsylvania Liquor Control Board earlier this month showcased some of the best its Wine and Spirits stores have to offer at the Vintage & Vineyards wine festival. About 160 kiosks, manned by knowledgeable representatives from various wineries and importers, were situated throughout the Antique Automobile Club of America Museum in Hershey, Pennsylvania.

The experience was two-fold. Sipping on oak-aged chardonnays while standing mere feet from a 1925 Ford Model T Speedster is difficult to describe. Tasting a super-premium Napa cabernet sauvignon in view of a fire-engine-red 1930 DuPont Model G is impossible to describe. The auto-enthusiast setting mixed with the elegant wine selection made the event, overall, irresistible and unique.

Ticket holders were greeted at the door and handed a generously large wine glass by a PLCB representative. Guests’ mouths were watering, eager to get to the tastings. Of course, before you could get to the tasting area, a wall of wine-for-sale items had to be navigated. As eager as I was to flood my mouth with wine, it was hard to play ignorant and forget that the event is all about making money. Economics aside, the event got off to a busy and crowded start around 6:30 p.m.

In the basement level of the museum, more than 60 foreign wineries were treating Pennsylvanians to imported wine treats from France, Italy, Germany, South America, and even Asia. The various winery and importation representatives were, generally, very helpful and answered all our questions. They were typically eager to demonstrate the uniqueness of their offerings. There seemed to be a lot of interest in Alsace and German rieslings, based on the crowds surrounding the F. E. Trimbach kiosk as the reps poured their Riesling Cuvée Frédéric Emile.

The first floor of the museum was dedicated to showcasing domestic wines from all over the country, with many hailing from the west coast. There were a surprising number of Washington and Oregon wines available for tasting, but California, as expected, dominated the scene. A strong emphasis seemed to be placed on the chardonnays, sauvignon blancs, and pinot noirs.

Some of the varietals I was looking forward to trying, like Chateau Montelena’s prized Estate Zinfandel or Stag’s Leap’s exclusive SLV Cabernet Sauvignon, were left off the table for the “ordinary” taster like myself. I later found out that some VIP guests were able to try these more exclusive wines at a private event held earlier in the evening. (Perhaps, Curiata.com will be invited to this soirée next time.)

From California, many Napa, Sonoma, and Central Valley wineries were featuring spring-favorite rosé wines, typically fashioned from pinot noir or a blend of grenache and syrah. Most notably, Francis Ford Coppola Winery was going for the latter in its Sofia line, named for the daughter of the famed Hollywood director, an accomplished movie director in her own right. It is a much more European style of rosé, popular in the south of France. Wine Enthusiast recently rated this affordable wine a 90 out of 100.

A number of great wines left an impression on me. Here are three domestic offerings that really stood-out as “must try” wines:

  1. Ken Wright Cellars 2010 Guadalupe Vineyard Pinot Noir — Rusty ruby in color. Earthy w/ noticeable spice, tannins, and a late-coming minerality and leather, but yields to a smoother than expected finish.

    An interesting fact about Ken Wright Cellars: the winery specializes almost entirely in pinot noir production, bottling many different pinots, all of which are grown, harvest, pressed, and fermented exactly the same way. The only differences among them are the soil and location of the vineyards in which the grapes are grown (all in the Northern Willamette Valley region of Oregon). It’s an interesting experiment that results in surprisingly different-tasting wines. Guadalupe Vineyard, specifically, has soil that results in highly concentrated, small-cluster pinot grapes that are slightly more tannic than those grown in a more sedimentary soil.

    Check out the entire line of Ken Wright Cellars pinot noirs, but for a truly delicious one, I’ll refer you to the Guadalupe Vineyard. The winery representative stated that the 2010 vintage is in its prime window for drinking now thru 2018.

    Retail value is about $44.99.

    Score: 4.25 out of 5

  2. Chateau Montelena 2011 Napa Valley Chardonnay — Made from grapes grown away from the estate, this Napa chard pours the typical pale golden hue, with noticeable butter, plus subtle toast and citrus notes. The acidity is tame and soft, with a nice carbonation level; a truly balanced wine that yields its tropical fruit to an almost European-style minerality. This is an amazingly balanced wine and my wife’s favorite of the night.

    We shouldn’t expect anything less from Chateau Montelena. This is, after all, one of the wineries that was essential in bringing the world’s attention to the potential of California wines, especially chardonnay (check out the movie Bottle Shock). The winery representative told me that Montelena’s chardonnay is very cellar-worthy and can age well under the right conditions; he mentioned a recent uncorking of 1990 and 1991 vintages at the winery that he was fortunate to partake in. He recommended that purchasing magnum-sized bottles (1.5-liter) or larger for cellar aging.

    Retail value is about $39.95.

    Score: 4.5 out of 5

  3. Saintsbury 2012 Carneros Vin Gris of Pinot Noir — A 100-percent pinot noir. On first sip, a dry, crisp edge and solid, almost abrasive initial acidity to balance it out when paired with food. We bought a few bottles of this and it has paired well with everything from soft cheeses to desserts and even Chinese take-out food.

    According to the Saintsbury wine representative, the grapes are grown in mountainside, volcanic soil, getting a lot of late afternoon sun. The terroir is evident in the drink. As the wine opens up and becomes more and more drinkable, the stone minerality and earthiness of the wine emerges.

    Saintsbury has been making this wine since 1989, and it’s one of their best-received. Vines in this vineyard are a mix of old and young; the older vines are low-yield, but produce highly concentrated, juicy grapes. Honestly, a very pleasing wine, and what I would call the “best buy” of the evening.

    At the show, it sold for around $11 a bottle, but was on sale the next day as a “Chairman’s Selection” at the state-run Wine and Spirits store for only $8! Not just a best buy, but a great buy!

    Score: 4 out of 5.

A wine festival is a perfect opportunity to try a variety of new wines at an affordable price. Don’t pass up the next chance you have, and be sure to tell us about your favorites in the comments below or on Twitter.

beer

What We’re Pouring: May 21, 2014

BREWERY: Weisses Brauhaus G. Schneider & Sohn, Kelheim, Bavaria, Germany
BEER NAME: Schneider Weisse Unser Aventinus (Tap 6)
STYLE: Weizenbock
ABV: 8.2%
TASTING NOTES: Pleasing brown color when poured into a German style stein, light white head, clove and slight ginger spice on the nose (much like a Belgian dubbel), but on the tongue strong notes of banana bread, clove, and even sour fruit at the finish. Well-rounded beer and smooth, but hearty.
A-  ~JW

BREWERY: Full Sail Brewing Company, Hood River, Oregon, U.S.A.
BEER NAME: Session Black Lager
STYLE: Black Lager
ABV: 5.4%
TASTING NOTES: Decent balance of flavor and drinkability factor; hints of coffee, roasted barley on the nose, and even chocolate on first taste, but is not overpowered and weighty. Even the malt factor is minimal, making this an easy-to-drink beer. Not anything complex, but a refreshing beer at a decent price, perfect alternative beer for lounging on the deck this Spring, especially if pale ales and light beers aren’t your thing.
B  ~JW

BREWERY: Dogfish Head Craft Brewery, Milton, Delaware, U.S.A.
BEER NAME: 90 Minute Imperial I.P.A.
STYLE: Imperial / Double India Pale Ale
ABV: 9%
TASTING NOTES: Amazing, and as Esquire Magazine has stated, it is quite possibly the best I.P.A. brewed in the States. Golden in color, raisin on the nose. This beer is complex, yet undemanding. Extreme barley notes, abundant hops (as one would expect), and almost a brandy/sherry-like creaminess that comes through with the alcohol. An exquisite sipper that deserves careful appreciation. Paired well with honey-mustard grilled chicken.
A  ~JW

BREWERY: Brewery Ommegang – Cooperstown, New York, U.S.A.
BEER NAME: Hennepin
STYLE: Farmhouse Ale / Saison
ABV: 7.7%
TASTING NOTES: Hazy golden yellow with a thick white head when poured, the nose is yeasty, with enticing aromas of clove, citrus, and yellow cake. The first sip is crisp and tart, very effervescent, starting with lemon and ginger, followed by orange and spice. Really tasty malts, and the hops are so well integrated, they’re barely noticeable. The beer is nice and dry all the way through the delicious finish. A really tasty saison, crisp and refreshing. I want another.
A-  ~BG

BREWERY: Brewery Ommegang – Cooperstown, New York, U.S.A.
BEER NAME: Three Philosophers
STYLE: Quadrupel Ale
ABV: 9.7%
TASTING NOTES: Pours a reddish brown color with dark fruits on the nose, dominated by  black cherries but also including figs, caramel and bready yeast. Sweet malts shine through when tasting, with flavors of plum, cherry, molasses cookies, and hints of spice and brown sugar. A bit sweet, but delicious.
A-  ~BG

BREWERY: New Belgium Brewery – Fort Collins, Colorado, U.S.A.
BEER NAME: Summer Helles
STYLE: Munich Helles Lager
ABV: 5.0%
TASTING NOTES: Pours pale yellow with a soft white head. The nose is a bit tight, but toast, fresh baked biscuits, hops, and honey come through. The taste mostly follows the nose, along with floral hops and a hint of lemony citrus. Easy-going, refreshing, not complicated.
B  ~BG

trimbach-pinot

‘Sideways Effect’ pushed Pinot Noir into American cellars

There’s probably no other wine that has benefited from pop culture more than Pinot Noir. Rex Pickett’s buddy comedy novel Sideways and the Alexander Payne movie it inspired had a significant impact on Pinot Noir sales in North America and on wine consumption in general.

For those who haven’t seen the movie or read the book, Sideways is the story of two friends, Miles and Jack, played in the film brilliantly by Paul Giamatti and Thomas Haden Church, traveling through the Santa Ynez Valley for “one last hurrah” before Jack gets married. The story ends up as a modern-day comedy of errors, focusing on the clash between Miles, who is focused on tasting wine and relaxing, and Jack, who would prefer to be flirting, womanizing, and having a fling or two before his wedding.

Miles, who is a serious wine aficionado, teaches Jack about wine along the way, and we learn about his obsession with Pinot Noir: “It’s thin-skinned, temperamental, ripens early. It’s, you know, it’s not a survivor like Cabernet, which can just grow anywhere and thrive even when it’s neglected. No, Pinot needs constant care and attention, you know? And in fact it can only grow in these really specific, little, tucked away corners of the world. And, and only the most patient and nurturing of growers can do it, really. Only somebody who really takes the time to understand Pinot’s potential can then coax it into its fullest expression. Then, I mean, oh its flavors, they’re just the most haunting and brilliant and thrilling and subtle and ancient on the planet.” The movie was a hit at domestic box offices, and in the few years following the film’s release, Pinot Noir sales saw significant increases.

We also learn in the film of Miles’ distaste for Merlot, as at one point he screams: “If anyone orders Merlot, I am leaving. I am not drinking f***ing Merlot!” This, too, altered U.S. wine sales: there was a noticeable decline in Merlot sales after the film’s release. The increased popularity of Pinot Noir, along with the decrease in Merlot, was dubbed “The Sideways Effect” by many in the wine industry. In more recent years, the effect has leveled off, with Merlot regaining the ground it had lost.

Ironically, Merlot and Pinot Noir are two wines that are commonly suggested for novice wine drinkers to try. They are both typically low in tannins, which cause a bitter, cotton-mouth sensation — a quality commonly disliked by those trying red wine for the first time. Both wines are also typically fruit-forward, meaning the flavors that stand out the most are fruit characteristics, like cherries in Pinot Noir and dark berries and plum in Merlot. Yet Miles is enraptured by the former and detests the latter.

Pinot Noir has an interesting status in the wine world. Serious winos sometimes say that you “graduate” to Pinot Noir from other, less sophisticated red wines. How can Pinot Noir be a good wine for novice drinkers but also be the prized wine of wine snobs?

The answer has to do with the less obvious flavors, the subtleties and nuances that an experienced palate can detect. While the typical tastes of Pinot are easy for inexperienced wine drinkers to enjoy, it’s the flavors that you find when you get past the obvious that truly fascinate winos. Pinot Noir is usually not powerful like Cabernet Sauvignon and is typically never a “fruit bomb” like an Aussie Shiraz. It is light- or, at most, medium-bodied and has delicate rather than in-your-face fruit flavors. Cherries, cola, and earthy flavors are most commonly associated with Pinot Noir, but descriptions often also include red fruits like raspberries and cranberries, as well as herbs, spices, caramel, leather, and mushrooms.

The most famous region for Pinot Noir is in Burgundy, France. This also leads to some astonishingly high prices, which is why I’ve chosen to leave Burgundy aside for now. Pinot Noir is also grown in another French region, Alsace, along the border with Germany where acidic white wines otherwise dominate. Trimbach’s Pinot Noir Reserve is a high-quality offering priced reasonably. The nose is beautiful and “outdoorsy” with floral and spice components, along with a forest aroma, like damp leaves in the woods. There are abundant cherry and cranberry flavors on the palate, with a little earthiness and very subtle tannins.

In the United States, California’s cooler growing areas produce some fantastic Pinot Noir, including along the Central Coast and in the Russian River Valley / Sonoma County regions. As with most California wines, the flavors are bigger and bolder than those from France. The 2012 La Crema Pinot Noir from Sonoma is a really solid wine for the price and is a great choice to drink at home or to bring along to a dinner party. It is also widely available, given its place within the Kendall Jackson wine empire. I like the cherry cola component to this wine, along with ripe berries, a hint of coffee, spice, and oak.

In Oregon, Pinot Noir is truly king — and very popular these days, particularly in the Willamette Valley. Most Oregon Pinot is not cheap, however, perhaps due to its high demand. The wines are typically bolder than those from Europe but more delicate than California’s, sometimes with a beautiful tartness. Left Coast Cellars’ 2011 “Cali’s Cuvee” Pinot Noir is an affordable example, with a nose of berries, mint, oak, and a hint of chocolate. The palate has plenty of black cherry, plum, and pomegranate, but the twist is the astringent, fresh-brewed tea on the finish.

You’ll find plenty of Pinot Noir outside these areas, but almost always from temperate or cool climate regions. Excellent bottles are easily found from Germany, Northern Italy, New Zealand, and the Finger Lakes of New York (Ravines and Red Tail Ridge make excellent Old World-style Pinot).

Do you smell and taste the subtleties, deep down, past the bright cherry flavors? Close your eyes, and swirl, sniff, sip.

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As beer flows, so my mind goes: Sint Amatus 12

Bottled & Corked expands its scope beginning this week to include another of man’s great creations: beer. We hope you enjoy the additional coverage in one of our most popular columns.

The first sip is always the most important. Don’t doubt this. The first sip determines everything.

It’s the temperature shock when your lips first encounter the cold brew. It’s the carbonation dancing on your tongue. It’s the unexpected (or expected) dose of yeast, hops, and malt that washes over your taste buds. It’s the delayed swallow as you contemplate what just hit you. It’s that brief nanosecond when your eyes close and your senses widen. It’s the smile, the ingratiating nod of approval you pass the bartender’s way, or the audible, “Ahhhhh…” that escapes your throat.

Are you thirsty yet?

Whatever the reaction, there is an undeniable moment, however brief, of sincere enlightenment that accompanies the first sip of a truly great beer. After all, you know what they say about first impressions. Tasting a great beer for the first time is like a rite of passage. It means a lot to take that first sip.

Beer and wine lovers all have a “wish list” — a queue that continues to grow along with one’s passion for the beverages. Every time we read a slew of reviews in Wine Enthusiast or skim through user musings on BeerAdvocate.com, our wish list lengthens due to that human instinct to blurt out (either audibly or to ourselves), “I must try that,” or, “I want that.”

With the tantalizing rise in worldwide craft, micro, and home beer brewing, beer tastings have become as commonplace as wine tastings. There’s something out there for everyone. Every taste, every flavor seems to exist, especially in the beer market.

Within the world of craft brewing, there’s an intentional emphasis placed on the importance of not just the initial taste, but the entire beer-drinking experience. Risk-taking brewers have transcended the commonplace pilsners and lagers that make up the mass market of everyday brews in favor of creating niche beers for the most discerning tastes.

Experimental brewers are going to great lengths to make their beer stand out from the crowd. Organic beers (like Bison Brewing’s Organic I.P.A.), chocolate and peanut butter stouts (like Duclaw’s Sweet Baby Jesus!), specialty holiday seasonal beers (like Troegs Mad Elf or Samuel Adams Old Fezziwig Ale), renewed interest in ancient beer brewing techniques (like Dogfish Head’s Midas Touch, supposedly based on beer recipes that date back to 700 B.C.), and beers that actually have animal ingredients (like Ramsgate’s Black Pearl Oyster Stout) have surfaced to delight curious beer drinkers.

Even importers are finally taking risks on bringing in traditional and specialty brews from all corners of the world. For example, it used to be that Hoegaarden’s witbier and Stella Artois’ pale lager were the only Belgian beers found in U.S. bars (maybe you’d find the occasional specialty Trappiste brew, like Chimay Grand Reserve). Now, American drinkers are being treated to previously unavailable international beer gems; many higher-end bars are constantly rotating their stock of “what’s on tap” to keep consumers’ options plentiful.

This is a good thing. Consumers are learning about all that’s available beyond Miller, Coors, and Bud. There’s something special about the direction craft and micro brewers are taking; they’re attempting to create flavors and experiences beer drinkers have been craving, while at the same time continuing to satisfy the expectations relative to what made drinkers fall in love with beer in the first place. I don’t mean to diminish the common, everyday beer. (I mean, as I write this, I have a Yuengling Lager close at hand.) There is a comfort in the “old fall-backs” that keep us returning for more. But the human spirit is, by nature, curious, and we crave what we’ve never had.

Enter the “wish list.” It’s time to make some of those wishes a reality. Recently, I’ve been indulging in some new beers (well, new to me). A beer that I was able to strike off my wish list was De Struise Brouwer’s Sint Amatus Ootsvleteren 12. It’s no secret to those who know me best that I am an avid Belgian beer fanatic, so this brew has been on my radar for awhile.

I was able to order a bottle from a delightful purveyor of all things Belgium, so thanks to Kurt at BelgiumInABox.com, I could finally try this beer. I purchased a single 33-centiliter bottle from the 2010 vintage. (Yes, a bottle-aged beer … sounding a little like a wine? Well, it should).

Before I get to that precious first sip, here are some details about the brewery. De Struise started in 2006 and was turning out fine microbrews in Oostvleteren, Belgium, by 2009. The company brews a whole line of both traditional and experimental brews. (I’ve also tried their 2011 vintage Christmas beer called Struise Tsjeeses … out of this world and unique.)

The Sint Amatus 12 is named after a real Benedictine monk of that name. With elaborate label artwork, the Sint Amatus bottle stands out. What’s really unique and intriguing about this beer is that, while on the surface it seems just like any other traditional Belgian dark, quad ale, this one is aged in used Kentucky bourbon barrels. Most notably, Struise uses barrels from Woodford Reserve, a prominent small-batch bourbon producer in the United States.

Now, for that first sip.

Beer name: Sint Amatus Oostvleteren 12 (2010 vintage), 33-cL bottle

Type of glass: Trappiste beer chalice-style glass; I used a St. Bernardus glass

Other info: 10.5 percent alcohol by volume; misleadingly strong, should be a “sipper;” at around 300 calories, it’s filling, too — not a “lite” beer

Tasting notes: The nose was unassuming and what was expected of a strong, dark Belgian ale, especially a quad ale. The yeast and malt are prominent, even on the nose.

At first sip, the palate is overwhelmed (in a good way!) by the sweetness of candy sugar and malt, but it’s smooth. Judging by the age of the bottle, the bottle conditioning has a lot to do with the smoothness factor. It was so easy to drink.

Now, about those bourbon barrels … the flavor is there, but it is kind of hidden; it’s an afterthought on the back of the tongue. The wood taste and potency of the bourbon mixes well. It is more in the aftertaste, if anything.

After drinking nearly the entire glass, well past that excitement of the first sip and on to the sheer contentment of the whole experience, I wondered if a younger bottle (a 2013, perhaps?) would have the bourbon barrel wood more potent and up-front. Needless to say, while the beer is no longer on my wish list, it has certainly moved to my list of favorites.

Score: 4.75 out of 5

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What I’m Pouring: May 7, 2014

2010 Chateau Moulin de Clotte Côtes de Bordeaux (France): Mostly Merlot with a little Cabernet Franc blended in, the nose is reminiscent of a cedar chest, with dark berries and herbs, while the palate is a great combination of fresh raspberry, black cherries, spice, and toast.  A-  $13

2011 Domaine de Magalanne Côtes du Rhône (France): Interesting blend of equal parts Grenache, Syrah, Carignan, and Cinsault. Cherry liqueur, berries, and a hint of grilling on the nose, followed by a fruity palate and an interesting dried cherry and baking spices on the finish. B+  $12

2012 Lothian Vineyards “Horny Owl” Shiraz (South Africa): A cooler climate wine, with some of the normal blackberry and pepper component of Shiraz, but also fall spices, and hints of game meats. B-  $14

2013 Ravines Sauvignon Blanc (Finger Lakes): Lychee fruit and floral aromatics on the nose, with zippy lime, grapefruit, tropical notes, a hint of chalk, and acidic minerality on the finish. A-  $18

2012 Ravines Keuka Village Red (Finger Lakes): An easy drinking everyday red, with or without food. Red berries and plum, with a dash of pepper.  B   $13

2011 Ravines Pinot Noir (Finger Lakes): On the nose, nice strawberry/cranberry, floral, and leather notes, with good tart cherries on the palate, with nice touches of earthiness and subtle hints of spice and oak. Old world style. A-  $24

2010 Fulkerson Vincent (Finger Lakes): Dark berries, plum, mushrooms, earth, funk, moderate tannins on the finish. Not Bad. B-  $10

2012 Keuka Overlook Gewürztraminer (Finger Lakes): Floral and spicy on the nose, with lemon/lime, lychee fruit, and subtle hints of nutmeg and clove. Paired nicely with spicy grilled chicken. B+ $14

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Savor spring with elegant Sauvignon Blanc

Now that we’ve actually had some spring weather in the Northeast, it’s as good a time as any to try some Sauvignon Blanc.

Many wine drinkers tend to gravitate toward opposite ends of the spectrum — for example, red wine drinkers might prefer full-bodied, powerful wines like Cabernet Sauvignon from California or Australian Shiraz, while others prefer softer, elegant Pinot Noir. Likewise, white wine enthusiasts generally prefer round, full-bodied Chardonnays, or they go for light, zippy wines like Riesling. As a result, Sauvignon Blanc ends up underappreciated (and usually priced well).

Like most wines, Sauvignon Blanc expresses different qualities depending on where it is grown. Old World offerings from France offer a wide range: they can be sweet, as in the dessert-style wines of Sauternes; dry and fruity from Bordeaux; or floral, smoky, and mineral from the Loire Valley and Pouilly-Fumé.

In the New World, New Zealand tends to be viewed as the current favorite for Sauvignon Blanc (though that trend may be starting to fade slightly). The dead giveaway of a Sauvignon Blanc from that island country is a fresh-cut grass aroma, combined with grapefruit and other tropical flavors. The wines can also tend to be “green” or “vegetal” in their flavor profiles, including tastes like cucumber, bell pepper, and even asparagus. This will no doubt turn some wine drinkers off, but can also make a wine even more interesting and appealing.

In the United States, there is plenty of Sauvignon Blanc from California. These wines can exhibit the tropical fruit flavors like those found in bottles from New Zealand, but they sometimes lack the grassy component. You will no doubt find Sauvignon Blanc from Washington state as well, and from a few producers in the Finger Lakes.

The Sauvignon Blanc from Finger Lakes producer Ravines is an outstanding example, with lychee and floral aromatics on the nose and some very refreshing lime, grapefruit, and tropical fruit flavors that slide right into an interesting chalk characteristic and a sharp, acidic mineral finish.

If you want to see what all the New Zealand hype is about, try the Mount Nelson Sauvignon Blanc. The grassy component is there, but not heavily so, and it has good depth of flavor, with grapefruit, lemon, tart apple, and minerality throughout. Like the Ravines, the Mount Nelson has great acidity on the finish.

Sauvignon Blanc can be pretty light and elegant, which lends to pairing with light, simple dishes. Goat cheese, light seafood dishes, and salads pair beautifully, but to be honest, just take a bottle out on the deck and enjoy the weather.

Swirl, sniff, sip.

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Derby brings out Modern Southern Gentleman

This Modern Urban Gentleman is decidedly Yankee. Nonetheless, his recent nonstop schedule, filled with many New York minutes, has this gentleman looking forward to the weekend’s annual celebration of Southern gentility: the Kentucky Derby.

Some would apparently argue that Kentucky is not properly Southern. From this Pennsylvanian perspective, the home of bluegrass, bourbon, and Colonel Sanders could be nothing other than the heart and soul of the South. And for this one weekend, we northern gents are free to appropriate the attire, the cuisine, and the airs of our southern compatriots.

The Derby is an unapologetic excuse to throw a Southern-themed party. It’s not hard to fry up whatever protein — catfish, chicken, steak — is in the vicinity, but any proper gentleman will want to have some key details correct as he settles in for a long afternoon of sipping and basking in the mid-spring sunshine. And what better way to enjoy those rays of warmth than in the outfit seemingly created for this very event: the seersucker suit.

In truth, seersucker has its roots in India, where British colonials needed a breathable fabric to stay cool while still preserving that stuffy aura so essential to being a Brit. The word is from kheer aur shakkar, meaning “rice pudding and sugar.” That evocative description is apt for a material that puckers to raise it away from the skin and allow airflow.

Not surprisingly, the material became a hit among the lower class of the American South, where the ability to blend with the aristocracy was valued, and the relatively inexpensive seersucker could be fashioned into suits for the poor. In a proto-hipster move, the monied youth of the South began wearing seersucker ironically, and it became de rigueur for all classes.

From the days of Atticus Finch through the early 2000s, a man in a seersucker suit might have been laughed out of his yacht club north of the Mason-Dixon. But the last decade has brought a reborn seersucker to hip urban gents. With muted hues, sleeker lapels, and a tighter silhouette, the seersucker suit is becoming a viable summer garment.

The Modern Urban Gentleman last year purchased the Ludlow suit in Japanese seersucker from J. Crew. When properly accessorized, with navy or washed-out hues and brown shoes, a fabric that used to be a bold proclamation is instead an understated, elegant, office-ready warm-weather option. That makes it a worthwhile investment.

But for Derby time, understated goes out the window. The proper swagger of a Derby-ready gentleman requires a seersucker suit with all the bells and whistles. This means a statement bow tie (but no red — too Pee Wee), white or off-white bucks (no socks), and a boater. Add a rose boutonniere since this is, after all, the Run for the Roses.

A word on those shoes: the Modern Urban Gentleman is quite satisfied with his Florsheim Men’s Kearny Oxford, now seemingly available only in taupe; find something along these lines to root the suit. Bucks are made of nubuck or suede leather, which require serious care. If it rains on the Derby parade, find alternative footwear. Also, invest in a suede brush for various soft leather shoe needs.

Of course, no party is a party without lubrication. Luckily, each of the Triple Crown races has an official cocktail, and none is more storied than the Derby’s mint julep. Its archaeological record traces to at least 1784, and the drink was introduced to our nation’s capital by Sen. Henry Clay of, unsurprisingly, Kentucky.

The mint julep has four essential ingredients: mint leaf, bourbon whiskey, sugar, and water. Spearmint is the mint of choice, but others can be substituted based on local availability; freshness is the primary factor here. The brand of bourbon is open to personal preference, though the corporate-bought “official” choice of the Derby, Woodford Reserve, is an excellent option. For the recipe, refer to Esquire’s fine rendition, but don’t be afraid to experiment and find a personal method as the afternoon drifts by.

As for the race itself, do a bit of homework. Tune in to the NBC Sports Network at 5 Eastern this evening to learn the post positions and begin deciding which horse’s name sounds most bad-ass. Or, for the more serious, look into the real factors that may determine the winner. Keep in mind that a horse with good odds will probably win; no one is going to become a millionaire on a long shot. Most importantly: only risk what a gentleman can afford to lose.

The 2014 Kentucky Derby post time is 6:24 p.m. EDT. If a gentleman’s party is successful, that hour will arrive in a sunburned, intoxicated haze. The race is truly an afterthought. Concentrate instead on the fine drinks, the finer suits, and the company of friends on a beautiful May afternoon.